SRT4 Frequently Asked Questions Needed!!!

[Broken5hift]

In an effort to improve the forum. We're going to begin creating a FAQ list so there will be an easily located list of questions and answers for everyone who needs them.

The goal of this thread is for you to post all the SRT4 Questions and answers that you can think of. When we have enough, we'll start answering any unanswered questions and we'll make a thread just for the FAQ. The questions can be composed of what a new owner and a experienced owner want to know. Thanks.





BOV=Blow Off Valve
UPP=Upgraded Pressure Pipe
WGA=Wastegate Actuator
BOP=Block Off Plate
CAI=Cold Air Intake
TT=Turbo Timer
STS=Short Throw Shifter
MBC=Manual Boost Controler
EBC=Electronic Boost Controler
DSBC=Dual Stage Boost Controler
HPBC=High Performance Boost Controler
WOT=Wide Open Throttle
FMIC=front mount intercooler
HOM=High Octane Mode (stage kits with toys)
4DR=4 door
A/F=Air/Fuel Ratio
A/C=Air Conditioning
ABS=Anti-lock Braking System
ACG=Adjustable Cam Gears
ACT=Air Charge Temperature Sensor
AFC=Automatic Fuel Controller
AFPR=Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator
AWD=All Wheel Drive
ACM=Airbag Control Module
AFR=Air to Fuel Ratio
BCM=Body Control Module
BHP=Brake Horsepower
BOP=Block off plate
BOV=Blow-off Valve
BPV=Bypass Valve
CAI=Cold Air Induction/ Intake
CB=Catalytic back (cat-back)
CC=Catch Can
CEL=Check Engine Light
DAB=Dial-a-boost
DCX=Daimler Chrysler
DOHC=Dual Overhead Cam
DP=Down Pipe
EBC=Electronic Boost Controller
ECU=Engine Control Unit
EGT=Exhaust Gas Temperature
EM=Exhaust Manifold
EMS=Engine Management System
FI=Force Induction
FMIC=Front Mount Intercooler
FPR=Fuel Pressure Regulator
FSM=Factory Service Manual
FWD=Front Wheel Drive
HID=High Intensity Discharge lighting
HOM=High Octane Mode
HP=HorsePower
I/C=Intercooler
I/H/E=Intake/Header/Exhaust
IM=Intake Manifold
LSD=Limited Slip Differential
MAP=Manifold Air Pressure Sensor or Manifold Absolute Pressure
MBC=Manual Boost Controller
MM=Motor Mounts
NOS=Nitrous Oxide System
OEM=Original Equipment Manufacturer
PCM=Power Control Module/ Primary Control Module
PCV=Positive Crankcase Ventilation
PP=PowerPaq
PVO=Performance Vehicle Operations
RWD=Rear Wheel Drive
S-AFC=Super Airflow Converter
SOHC=Single Overhead Cam
SMIC=Side Mount Intercooler
SRI=Short ram intake
SRS=Supplimentary Retraint System
SRT=Street and Racing Technology
STS=Short Throw Shifter
SV=Surge Valve
TB=Throttle body
TID=Turbo Intake Duct
TIP=Throttle Inlet Pressure Sensor
TPS=Throttle Position Sensor
TT=Turbo Timer or Twin Turbo
UDP=UnderDrive Pulley
UP=Up Pipe
VC=Valve Cover
WGA=Wastegate Actuator
WHP=Wheel Horse Power
WOT=Wide Open Throttle
LPP=Lower Pressure Pipe
TBE=Turbo back exhaust
LCA=lower control arm
MIL=malfunction indicator light (same as CEL)
STB=strut tower brace
PTB=Partial Throttle Boost

[Broken5hift]

By: MrCleanSrt4

First section deals with upgrades/parts/cost.
----------------------------------------------------
The second section give some basic theory behind "tuning" you SRT.
The tuning section is not really by me it was found on a WRX forum but Im going to modify it for our cars....PM... me if you would like to add info or think it needs modification.

Listed are some very basic guidelines for more power.
The srt-4 engine can handle approx 500hp/500wtrq on stock block and internals. After that internals will need to be upgraded. The stock cams are very good and do not need to be changed unless your going track/drag only.



I'm listing 3 versions of upgrades ...

AFTERMARKET SCHOOL OF THOUGHT :
For those that like to "tune" their SRT for max hp/$$$.Can use mods to build up more power. Can be tricky, may need constant tweaking.

MOPAR (DALE SEELEY) SCHOOL OF THOUGHT :
For those that like to bolt on parts from Mother Mopar and/or just want to bolt on hp and go. Extra $$$ is worth it for total drivability, plug-n-play convenience and reliability/durability.

NITROUS SCHOOL OF THOUGHT
Best $$$/per-HP ratio.Can be used in conjunction and compliment the above schools of thought.
MUST tuned and set up PROPERLY.
CAN be a very safe and reliable IF TUNED and set up PROPERLY,but remember mistakes with N20 are costly .
DO NOT EVEN CONSIDER A DRY KIT ON A TURBO CAR!!!
If you are unwilling to put in the time/research/setup/$$$ skip this.....

Noobies
--- SEARCH these terms if you are confused ----


First upgrades that are MUST haves for any SRT-4

$20 catch can :
What is it?
A can that keeps oil from getting into your intake.
/showthread.php?t=212

Aftermarket spark plug wires (MSD,Crane,Magnecore)~$50-$75

Mopar or aftermarket short throw shifter (STS) and urethane shifter bushings ~$120-$400

Motor Mounts :
Motor mounts (solid filled urethane,urethane inserts, dog bones,etc.) keeps your wheels from "hopping" in a launch and help you avoid breaking important things like oil pans, motor mount bolts and axels.

First upgrades for more power

AFTERMARKET SCHOOL OF THOUGHT :
240+hp-275+hp range
Stage 1 mopar upgrade $399=+10-15hp

Spark plugs:
NGK plug#LZTR5AIX-1 (1 range colder than stock,.40-.45 gap)

Exhaust
-cat back ~$300-$750=+7-12hp
-downpipe (cat-less) ~$149-$250 +10-15hp
-downpipe (high flow cat) ~$149-$350=+7-12hp
-full turbo-back exhuast (cat-less) ~$350-$1050=+12-25hp
-full turbo-back exhuast (high flow cat) ~$450-$1100=+12-25hp

Waste gate actuator (WGA) ~$149-$200=+12-25hp

Manual boost controller (MBC)~$30-$250=+12-25hp
OR
Electronic boost controller (EBC) ~$250-$650=+12-25hp

Intake ~$149-$350=+1-12hp
OR
K&N air filter(stock air box) ~$30-$75=+1-5hp


MOPAR SCHOOL OF THOUGHT :
240+hp-255+hp range

Stage 1 mopar turbo upgrade $399=+10-15hp
Exhaust Mopar cat back ~$300-$350=+7-12hp
Mopar air filter~$35=+1-5hp

NITROUS SCHOOL OF THOUGHT:

Basic "wet"EFI kit:
(NX,NOS,ZEX,DYNOTUNE,etc.)~$350-$650=+30-80hp

REQUIRED SAFTEY ITEMS:
Fuel pressure saftey switch ~$40
N2O pressure gauge,mechanical, on bottle ~$20-250
MSD RPM window switch~$90
Air/Fuel ratio saftey lean out switch~$80
Saftey"Blow Down" tube ~$25-$40

RECOMMENDED bolt on addtional parts:
Spark plugs:
NGK plug#LZTR5AIX-1 (1 range colder than stock,.30-.35 gap)

Wahlbro 255 lph fuel pump ~$99-120
Exhaust
-3" O2 sensor housing~$150-$180 +7-12hp
-cat back ~$300-$750=+7-12hp
-downpipe (cat-less) ~$149-$250 +10-15hp
-downpipe (high flow cat) ~$149-$350=+7-12hp
-full turbo-back exhuast (cat-less) ~$350-$1050=+12-25hp
-full turbo-back exhuast (high flow cat) ~$450-$1100=+12-25hp

RECOMMENDED N20 ACCESORIES
Aftermarket ignition,MSD#6211,or #6212 ~$318-$499
Bottle heater~$50-$150
Purge kit~$99-350
Remote bottle opener~$129-$300
N2O pressure gauge,electrical,dash mount~$150-$250



Second upgrades for more power

AFTERMARKET SCHOOL OF THOUGHT :
275+hp-300+hp range
First upgrades (as above)+

NGK plug#LZTR5AIX-1 (1 range colder than stock,.35-.40 gap)
Larger front mount intercooler (FMIC)
~$350-$1050 +10-20hp
60-55mm throttle body ~$250 +5-10hp
True 60mm throttle body+60mm spacer ~$370 +7-15hp
Ported manifold ~$250-$399 +10-20hp
-3" O2 sensor housing~$150-$180 +7-12hp

MOPAR SCHOOL OF THOUGHT :
260+hp-280+hp range
First upgrades (as above)+
Stage 2 mopar turbo upgrade ~$799 (w/o toys)=260 hp
Stage 2 mopar turbo upgrade ~$1299 (w/ toys)=280 hp

NITROUS SCHOOL OF THOUGHT:
Direct port "wet"EFI kit:
(NX,NOS,ZEX,DYNOTUNE,etc.)~$750-$1050=+100-150hp

Saftey upgrades (as above)+

Wahlbro 255 lph fuel pump ~$99-120
Aftermarket ignition,MSD#6211,or #6212 ~$318-$499
Clutch upgrade $650-$1100
Axle upgrade $770+

RECOMMENDED N20 ACCESORIES:
Progressive N20 controller~$350-$750

Third upgrades for more power

AFTERMARKET SCHOOL OF THOUGHT :
300+hp-650+hp range
Second upgrades (as above)+

BIG TURBO KIT $1550-$4000=150+hp-450+hp
BRAKE upgrade $650-$1850
Clutch upgrade $650-$1100
Axle upgrade $770+


MOPAR SCHOOL OF THOUGHT :
310+hp-365+hp range
Second upgrades (as above)+
Mopar 2.5" downpipe ~$350
Mopar clutch upgrade ~$550-$600
Stage 3 mopar turbo upgrade ~$3000 (w/o toys)=310 hp
Stage 3 mopar turbo upgrade ~$3599 (w/ toys)=365
hp

NITROUS SCHOOL OF THOUGHT:
Direct port "wet"EFI kit:
(NX,NOS,ZEX,DYNOTUNE,etc.)~$750-$1050=+170-250+hp
FORGED PISTONS~$450-$750
CRANE N20 SPECIFIC CAMS~$300

Saftey upgrades (as above)+
Progressive N20 controller~$350-$750

BASIC TUNING GUIDE

1.0 Intro


1.1 -Intro To Tuning

1.2 -Common Mistakes
1.21 -Raising Boost Prematurely
1.22 -Installing An Intake Prematurely
1.23 -Voiding Your Warranty
1.24 -Soft Break In

1.3 -The Order





|1.0| INTRO

This Guide is by no means completed or even started. I decided to post this guide and update throughout the next few days so that people can enjoy the information provided before I finish the entire paper.

|_____1.1 - INTRO TO TUNING

Tuning the SRT is like tuning any other car. It is nothing you should rush into. You should look at all your options and know exactly what you are doing. If you think tuning your SRT is something that will not require maintenance or time, you should look to a new hobby. If you are somebody that has the time, energy, and money to spend on this hobby I hope this guide helps you.

|_____1.2 - COMMON MISTAKES

Many people rush into tuning a car before understanding how the car works. Do some reseach, learn the "why" first,learn the "how" later.


|_____1.21 - RAISING BOOST PREMATURELY

People rushing for speed raise boost right away to gain 20, 30, even 40 horsepower. This is extreme dangerous and could lead to serious damage to your turbo and even your engine. I can’t stress this enough, 40 hp for free sounds great, but that for that price if something should happen, do NOT raise your boost levels until you have researched what you SRT and modifications can support.
-Staged upgrades on our car do allow for more boost.
---Stage 0 (stock) boosts to about 10-12 psi.
---Stage 1 boosts to about 14psi, unmodified.
---Stage 2 boosts to about 15-17psi redline,~20psi spike, unmodified.
Stage 2 boosts to about 19-20psi redline,~21-24psi spike, unmodified.

|_____1.22 - INSTALLING AN INTAKE

I fully understand the reasoning behind this mod in some SRT owner’s eyes. In most cars a good Intake is worth 5 to 10 hp. It does change the turbo spool sound to add a quite nice scream at full boost. The stock intake/airbox can support 400+ hp.

|_____1.23 - VOIDING YOUR WARRANTY

If you want to keep your car under warranty I would not recommend tuning at all. You can contract your dealer and find out what mods are acceptable, however even then risk the change of coverage. The best policy to assume is that if the car isn’t stock, it’s not covered. A simple Blow Off Valve can void your entire engine at some dealers.

|_____1.24 - SOFT BREAK IN

Oh no! He didn’t just say what I thought he said, did he? Yes I did. A highly debated decision even among professionals, should I baby my car at first or let it have it? The correct answer lies in the middle. So what’s the best way to break in an engine? Run it hard. Why? Nowadays, the piston ring seal is really what the break in process is all about. Contrary to popular belief, piston rings don’t seal the combustion pressure by spring tension. Ring tension is necessary only to scrape the oil to prevent it from entering the combustion chamber. If you think about it, the ring exerts maybe 5-10 lbs of spring tension against the cylinder wall … How can such a small amount of spring tension seal against thousands of PSI of combustion pressure?? It Can’t. So how do rings seal against tremendous combustion pressure? From the actual gas pressure itself! It passes over the top of the ring, and gets behind it to force it outward against the cylinder wall. The problem is that new rings are far from perfect and they must be worn in quite a bit in order to completely seal all the way around the bore. If the gas pressure is strong enough during the engine’s first miles of operation (WIDE OPEN), then the entire ring will wear into the cylinder surface, to seal the combustion pressure as well as possible. So what’s the problem with easy break ins? … The honed crosshatch pattern in the cylinder bore acts like a file to allow the rings to wear. The rings quickly wear down to peaks of this roughness, regardless of how hard the engine is run. In fact, if the rings aren’t sealed properly within the first 50 miles they will never be. Most engine problems are caused by two things in later engine life, not allowing the engine to warm up completely before running it, and easy break ins, either case is easily avoided. Oh no, I’ve already broken the car softly what can I do? First off, chances are you gunned it for that test drive at least once or twice (which is great to do) but if not, don’t worry. Horsepower loss around 4% due to improperly set rings. The only real way to correct it is to reinstall rings, but isn’t worth the hassle unless you are an active rally or track racer. Just keep an eye on those rings into the higher mileage.


|_____1.3 - THE ORDER

I lot of people have asked for my recommended order of upgrades and mods. For now I am just compiling a list for engine performance. For more details on any step please view the specific section for the upgrade.

[Broken5hift]

300WHP FAQ

By Aaronneon

here are alot of threads on it. 300whp is very simple.


FMIC
I prefer AGPs or PSI-FI

3 inch exhaust
Any full turbo back

map clamp [emanage-safc] - 4.0-4.2 volts clamping
Dasmopar clamp, ED emanage, or anyones SAFC. Stage 2 cars should clamp at 3.2-3.5 volts

return line kit
Aaronneons ....duuhh

WGA@ 20-22 psi
AGP!

Plugs gapped @ .30-.32
Stock plugs work the best for me

94-110 octane
Sunoco

No boost leaks
Check and double check!! Zip tie ALL vacuum lines

12.5 MAX a/f ratio. This is the highest I will allow. I keep the cars around 11.5-12.5[max]

Stage 1 or 2 injectors will work perfect
With a return line, the stage 1 injectors will be more than enough fuel that the stock turbo will use. No 750ccs newbs.

Stage 0-2 PCM
There is no need for stage 2. If you have it already, I would sell it. If not, then it can still be done.


=300+whp everytime. I think theres like 11-12 guys here in Ohio alone that are at that mark.

A 60mm TB at this point will help with the midrange, dont expect peak power to raise much. The same with a ported intake manifold. Doing headwork or an aftermarket intake manifold will get you more peak power. W/I is a great idea to help keep the car safe. It is not needed but does help. I have no experience with cams with a 300whp stock turbo car, but that is coming.

Nickspi`s car holds the record for most power so far... 329whp. We are adding a ported TB, exhaust manifold and turbo to raise that number soon. Then we will play with cams. He also doesnt have a fuel computer, so we will get one of those on.


Very simple. NO NEED!!! to ask questions. Buy the mods listed above. Make sure you use good gas. Make sure there are no boost leaks. Make sure the plugs are gapped like listed above. Make sure you have a good a/f ratio. The car will last if you keep up with maintence and watch the A/F ratio.

[SassySRT]

How about a list of the CEL codes?

[Broken5hift]

Exhaust FAQ

Billy Boat, turbo back, no cat (chrisrt-4) BIlly boat (http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/video/player.wtdr/wNjAwNDgxNnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D)
Broken5hift side exit (no details) my side exit (http://njsr.org/pics/displayimage.php?pos=-46892)
BDJ's 3" with dual mufflers (no details) (Bigmosrt) BDJ's (http://njsr.org/pics/displayimage.php?pos=-46891)
Injen 3" Cat back exhaust on my stage 2 car.
The BOV is a Greddy Type S
click here (http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/video/player.wtdr/wNzE0OTQ3NnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D)
Maxxfab Side Exit. 3" system. Cat + resonator.
Startup + rev. 0-70 run (in-cab). Quick drive away. 3rd gear flyby.
Click here (http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/video/player.wtdr/wNzQzMzIyNnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D)
B&B Turbo Back, Hi-Flow Magnaflow Cat., No Resonators.
B&B turbo back (http://home.comcast.net/~fyx1933013/B_and_B_TBE_Magnaflow_Hi-Flow_Cat.MOV)

[JuanDirtyMessican]

How about a list of the CEL codes?


Search Ya Damn Noob!! (/showthread.php?t=128)

[SassySRT]

Search Ya Damn Noob!! (/showthread.php?t=128)


I ment for it to be a part of the FAQ post. Not where is the list :ftard:

[punkrokdood]

How about a list of the CEL codes?
/showthread.php?t=213

[Broken5hift]

Originally Posted by OWN3D
I dont remember who, but some one asked for some codes. well here a couple.

03-04 SX/SRT - HARD CODES
P0016-CRANKSHAFT/CAMSHAFT TIMING MISALIGNMENT
P0031-O2 SENSOR 1/1 HEATER CIRCUIT LOW
P0037-O2 SENSOR 1/2 HEATER CIRCUIT LOW
P0032-O2 SENSOR 1/1 HEATER CIRCUIT HIGH
P0038-O2 SENSOR 1/2 HEATER CIRCUIT HIGH
P0033-SURGE VALVE SOLENOID CIRCUIT
P0068-MANIFOLD PRESSURE/THROTTLE POSITION CORRELATION
P0071-AMBIENT TEMP SENSOR PERFORMANCE
P0072-AMBIENT TEMP SENSOR LOW
P0073-AMBIENT TEMP SENSOR HIGH
P0107-MAP SENSOR LOW
P0108-MAP SENSOR HIGH
P0111-INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR PERFORMANCE
P0112-INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR LOW
P0113-INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR HIGH
P0116-ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE PERFORMANCE
P0117-ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR LOW
P0118-ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR HIGH
P0122-THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR #1 LOW
P0123-THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR #1 HIGH
P0125-INSUFFICIENT COOLANT TEMP FOR CLOSED-LOOP FUEL CONTROL
P0128-THERMOSTAT RATIONALITY
P0129-BAROMETRIC PRESSURE OUT-OF-RANGE
P0131-O2 SENSOR 1/1 VOLTAGE LOW
P0137-O2 SENSOR 1/2 VOLTAGE LOW
P0132-O2 SENSOR 1/1 VOLTAGE HIGH
P0138-O2 SENSOR 1/2 VOLTAGE HIGH
P0133-O2 SENSOR 1/1 SLOW RESPONSE
P0139-O2 SENSOR 1/2 SLOW RESPONSE
P0135-O2 SENSOR 1/1 HEATER PERFORMANCE
P0141-O2 SENSOR 1/2 HEATER PERFORMANCE
P0171-FUEL SYSTEM 1/1 LEAN
P0172-FUEL SYSTEM 1/1 RICH
P0201-FUEL INJECTOR #1
P0202-FUEL INJECTOR #2
P0203-FUEL INJECTOR #3
P0204-FUEL INJECTOR #4
P0234-OVERBOOST PERFORMANCE
P1106-BARO SOLENOID PERFORMANCE
P1188 TIP SENSOR PERFORMANCE
P0243-WASTEGATE SOLENOID CIRCUIT
P0300-MULTIPLE CYLINDER MISFIRE
P0301-CYLINDER #1 MISFIRE
P0302-CYLINDER #2 MISFIRE
P0303-CYLINDER #3 MISFIRE
P0304-CYLINDER #4 MISFIRE
P0315-NO CRANK SENSOR LEARNED
P0325-KNOCK SENSOR #1 CIRCUIT
P0335-CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR CIRCUIT
P0339-CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR INTERMITTENT
P0340-CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR CIRCUIT
P0344-CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR INTERMITTENT
P0420-CATALYTIC 1/1 EFFICIENCY
P0440-GENERAL EVAP SYSTEM FAILURE
P0441-EVAP PURGE SYSTEM PERFORMANCE
P0442-EVAP SYSTEM MEDIUM LEAK
P0443-EVAP PURGE SOLENOID CIRCUIT
P0452-NVLD PRESSURE SWITCH SENSE CIRCUIT LOW
P0453-NVLD PRESSURE SWITCH SENSE CIRCUIT HIGH
P0455-EVAP SYSTEM LARGE LEAK
P0456-EVAP SYSTEM SMALL LEAK
P0461-FUEL LEVEL SENSOR #1 PERFORMANCE
P0462-FUEL LEVEL SENSOR #1 LOW
P0463-FUEL LEVEL SENSOR #1 HIGH
P0480-COOLING FAN 1 CONTROL CIRCUIT
P0481-COOLING FAN 2 CONTROL CIRCUIT (NON-TURBO)
P0481-COOLING FAN 2 CONTROL CIRCUIT (TURBO)
P0498-NVLD CANISTER VENT VALVE SOLENOID CIRCUIT LOW
P0499-NVLD CANISTER VENT VALVE SOLENOID CIRCUIT HIGH
P0501-VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR #1 PERFORMANCE (AUTO TRANS)
P0501-VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR #1 PERFORMANCE (MANUAL TRANS)
P0506-IDLE SPEED LOW PERFORMANCE
P0507-IDLE SPEED HIGH PERFORMANCE
P0519-IDLE SPEED PERFORMANCE
P0508-IAC VALVE SENSE CIRCUIT LOW
P0509-IAC VALVE SENSE CIRCUIT HIGH
P0513-INVALID SKIM KEY
P0516-BATTERY TEMPERATURE SENSOR LOW
P0517-BATTERY TEMPERATURE SENSOR HIGH
P0522-OIL PRESSURE SENSOR LOW
P0551-POWER STEERING SWITCH PERFORMANCE
P0562-BATTERY VOLTAGE LOW
P0563-BATTERY VOLTAGE HIGH
P0572-BRAKE SWITCH #1 CIRCUIT LOW
P0573-BRAKE SWITCH #1 CIRCUIT HIGH
P0581-SPEED CONTROL SWITCH #1 HIGH
P0582-SPEED CONTROL VACUUM SOLENOID CIRCUIT
P0586-SPEED CONTROL VENT SOLENOID CIRCUIT
P0594-SPEED CONTROL SERVO POWER CIRCUIT
P0600-SERIAL COMMUNICATION LINK
P0601-INTERNAL MEMORY CHECKSUM INVALID
P0622-GENERATOR FIELD CONTROL CIRCUIT
P0627-FUEL PUMP RELAY CIRCUIT
P0630-VIN NOT PROGRAMMED IN PCM
P0632-ODOMETER NOT PROGRAMMED IN PCM
P0633-SKIM KEY NOT PROGRAMMED IN PCM
P0645-A/C CLUTCH RELAY CIRCUIT
P0660-MANIFOLD TUNE VALVE SOLENOID CIRCUIT
P0685-ASD RELAY CONTROL CIRCUIT
P0688-ASD RELAY SENSE CIRCUIT LOW
P0700-TRANSMISSION CONTROL SYSTEM
P0833-CLUTCH RELEASED SWITCH CIRCUIT
P0850-PARK/NEUTRAL SWITCH PERFORMANCE
P1105-TIP SENSOR SOLENOID CIRCUIT
P1115-GENERAL TEMP SENSOR PERFORMANCE
P1189-TIP SENSOR CIRCUIT LOW
P1190-TIP SENSOR CIRCUIT HIGH
P1593-SPEED CONTROL SWITCH STUCK
P1602-PCM NOT PROGRAMMED
P1603-PCM INTERNAL DUAL-PORT RAM COMMUNICATION
P1604-PCM INTERNAL DUAL-PORT RAM READ/WRITE INTEGRITY FAILURE
P1607-PCM INTERNAL SHUTDOWN TIMER RATIONALITY
P1696-EEPROM MEMORY WRITE DENIED/INVALID
P1697-EMR (SRI) MILEAGE NOT STORED
P1854-TIP BARO OUT OF RANGE
P2074-MANIFOLD PRESSURE/THROTTLE POSITION CORRELATION
- HIGH FLOW/VACUUM LEAK
P2096-DOWN STREAM FUEL SYSTEM 1/2 LEAN
P2097-DOWN STREAM FUEL SYSTEM 1/2 RICH
P2302-IGNITION COIL #1 SECONDARY CIRCUIT-INSUFFICIENT
IONIZATION
P2305-IGNITION COIL #2 SECONDARY CIRCUIT-INSUFFICIENT
IONIZATION
P2503-CHARGING SYSTEM VOLTAGE LOW
U0101-NO TRANSMISSION BUS MESSAGE
U0155-NO CLUSTER BUS MESSAGE
U0168-NO SKIM BUS MESSAGES
U110C-NO FUEL LEVEL BUS MESSAGE

[JuanDirtyMessican]

I ment for it to be a part of the FAQ post. Not where is the list :ftard:


you're the :ftard: :rofl:

[Broken5hift]

Brake light
Having your brake light come on during acceleration means you are low on brake fluid.

Stock Wiring problem
Hey All,

I'm installing a AFR Gage in my car and doing some wiring thru the firewall and saw the following that will certainly over time be a wiring problem.

The Clutch Lever when fully depressed will mash the Brake Switch wiring harness against the floor board. Mine is crushed, but still functional. There are 2 push pins holding it exactly in place for this to happen! try and re-route it as soon as possible.

[punkrokdood]

lots of good info in here... but can we keep this down to questions? I'll make threads in the proper sections that we can link to, then discussion can take place in those threads

[Broken5hift]

Replacement STAGE KIT part #'s

Part Number Description MSRP
04546692 O-Ring Fuel Pump Mod 8.35
04852396AB Copper Washers (6) 2.35
04884447AA Gasket 9.75
P4510063 Fuel Rail Assembly, Demand Regulated 279.00
P4510365 Sensor, MAP 3.0 Bar 80.00
P4510366 Sensor, TIP 3.0 Bar 110.00
P4510529 +30% Fuel Injectors (Individual) 89.00
P4510554 Fuel Pump Module, High Flow, 75PSI, Demand Regulated 699.00
P4510595 Wastegate Actuator (P350) 129.00
P4510596 Wastegate Actuator, Stage 3, (P420) 289.00
P4510601 Bezel Assembly 199.00
P4510623 4-Way Connector 24.00
P4510626 Inline Water Filter 29.00
P4510627 Inline Check Valve 35.00
P4510632 Sprayer Pump 60.00
P4510659 TD05HR Turbo with Inconel Steel Wheel, IncludesTurbocharger (P4510279) and Elbow (P4510278) 1,799.00
P4510861 Terminals (wire harness), 1 Pkg=10 pcs. 10.00
P4510862 Blue LED (wire harness) 4.00
P4510863 Red LED (wire harness) 4.00
P4510864 Turbo Cartridge, Iconel Turbine Wheel 750.00
P4510865 Turbo Cartridge, TiAl Turbine Wheel 1,650.00
P4510866 Turbo Hardware Kit: V-Clamp, Compressor Snap Ring, Actuactor Clip, Actuactor Bolts, and Elbow Bolts (5) 120.00
P4510867 Compressor Kit: Compressor Cover, Surge Bypass Valve, & Surge Valve Bolts (3) 225.00
P4510868 BOV Diaphragm 67.00
P4510869 Manifold Kit, Turbo Exhaust Elbow (P4510278), Manifold (P4510877), Elbow Bolts (5) 1,350.00
P4510922 Sprayer Brackets, Set of Two (2) 25.00
P4510923 Water Jets, Set of Four (4) 129.00
P4532586 +40% Fuel Injectors (Individual) 39.00

[Broken5hift]

lots of good info in here... but can we keep this down to questions? I'll make threads in the proper sections that we can link to, then discussion can take place in those threads

im doing this as a master list, if you want you can delete out all the questions and BS later.

[Broken5hift]

BOOST LEAK FAQ
I figured with all these guys dropping boost and not knowing where to begin, this thread will help those where to start looking. I know to plenty of you this is your first turbo car.

In this Discussion thread we will reveal the real leaks vs. hoses popping off etc..

If someone can get the method of pressurizing the system and you have pics, we need the how to. I can paste it on this first post for all to see.

This is a must (Pressure Testing) before you go out and think something is wrong with your car. Sometimes it gets as simple as a stripped worm drive clamp.

~ Lost a reading on your Boost Gauge? ~

the boost gauge is tapped into the brake booster line, it can be found on the hard plastic fitting to the brake booster. The line is very thin. a small wire tie will keep it from coming off. I will get a picture up sometime.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d74/Broken5hift/ievo77_23.jpg

Leak tester
CLick here for FAQ on how to make and use one (http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html)

[Broken5hift]

brandon let me know if you need any of the images hosted

[punkrokdood]

brandon let me know if you need any of the images hosted
images will be hosted here so that they are never lost :thumb:

[Broken5hift]

im looking for the BOV sound clips now, unless someone knows where they arE?

[paintbaler1587]

Here is the BOV Comparison video made a few years ago.
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-8593050839399447048

It includes:
AGP
GReddy Type S
HKS SSQV
Mopar BOV Conversion Plate
Turbo XS

and the turkey call BOV :lol: