punkrokdood
03-15-2010, 11:07 AM
By: MrCleanSrt4
First section deals with upgrades/parts/cost.
----------------------------------------------------
The second section give some basic theory behind "tuning" you SRT.
The tuning section is not really by me it was found on a WRX forum but Im going to modify it for our cars....PM... me if you would like to add info or think it needs modification.
Listed are some very basic guidelines for more power.
The srt-4 engine can handle approx 500hp/500wtrq on stock block and internals. After that internals will need to be upgraded. The stock cams are very good and do not need to be changed unless your going track/drag only.
I'm listing 3 versions of upgrades ...
AFTERMARKET SCHOOL OF THOUGHT :
For those that like to "tune" their SRT for max hp/$$$.Can use mods to build up more power. Can be tricky, may need constant tweaking.
MOPAR (DALE SEELEY) SCHOOL OF THOUGHT :
For those that like to bolt on parts from Mother Mopar and/or just want to bolt on hp and go. Extra $$$ is worth it for total drivability, plug-n-play convenience and reliability/durability.
NITROUS SCHOOL OF THOUGHT
Best $$$/per-HP ratio.Can be used in conjunction and compliment the above schools of thought.
MUST tuned and set up PROPERLY.
CAN be a very safe and reliable IF TUNED and set up PROPERLY,but remember mistakes with N20 are costly .
DO NOT EVEN CONSIDER A DRY KIT ON A TURBO CAR!!!
If you are unwilling to put in the time/research/setup/$$$ skip this.....
Noobies
--- SEARCH these terms if you are confused ----
First upgrades that are MUST haves for any SRT-4
$20 catch can :
What is it?
A can that keeps oil from getting into your intake.
/showthread.php?t=212
Aftermarket spark plug wires (MSD,Crane,Magnecore)~$50-$75
Mopar or aftermarket short throw shifter (STS) and urethane shifter bushings ~$120-$400
Motor Mounts :
Motor mounts (solid filled urethane,urethane inserts, dog bones,etc.) keeps your wheels from "hopping" in a launch and help you avoid breaking important things like oil pans, motor mount bolts and axels.
First upgrades for more power
AFTERMARKET SCHOOL OF THOUGHT :
240+hp-275+hp range
Stage 1 mopar upgrade $399=+10-15hp
Spark plugs:
NGK plug#LZTR5AIX-1 (1 range colder than stock,.40-.45 gap)
Exhaust
-cat back ~$300-$750=+7-12hp
-downpipe (cat-less) ~$149-$250 +10-15hp
-downpipe (high flow cat) ~$149-$350=+7-12hp
-full turbo-back exhuast (cat-less) ~$350-$1050=+12-25hp
-full turbo-back exhuast (high flow cat) ~$450-$1100=+12-25hp
Waste gate actuator (WGA) ~$149-$200=+12-25hp
Manual boost controller (MBC)~$30-$250=+12-25hp
OR
Electronic boost controller (EBC) ~$250-$650=+12-25hp
Intake ~$149-$350=+1-12hp
OR
K&N air filter(stock air box) ~$30-$75=+1-5hp
MOPAR SCHOOL OF THOUGHT :
240+hp-255+hp range
Stage 1 mopar turbo upgrade $399=+10-15hp
Exhaust Mopar cat back ~$300-$350=+7-12hp
Mopar air filter~$35=+1-5hp
NITROUS SCHOOL OF THOUGHT:
Basic "wet"EFI kit:
(NX,NOS,ZEX,DYNOTUNE,etc.)~$350-$650=+30-80hp
REQUIRED SAFTEY ITEMS:
Fuel pressure saftey switch ~$40
N2O pressure gauge,mechanical, on bottle ~$20-250
MSD RPM window switch~$90
Air/Fuel ratio saftey lean out switch~$80
Saftey"Blow Down" tube ~$25-$40
RECOMMENDED bolt on addtional parts:
Spark plugs:
NGK plug#LZTR5AIX-1 (1 range colder than stock,.30-.35 gap)
Wahlbro 255 lph fuel pump ~$99-120
Exhaust
-3" O2 sensor housing~$150-$180 +7-12hp
-cat back ~$300-$750=+7-12hp
-downpipe (cat-less) ~$149-$250 +10-15hp
-downpipe (high flow cat) ~$149-$350=+7-12hp
-full turbo-back exhuast (cat-less) ~$350-$1050=+12-25hp
-full turbo-back exhuast (high flow cat) ~$450-$1100=+12-25hp
RECOMMENDED N20 ACCESORIES
Aftermarket ignition,MSD#6211,or #6212 ~$318-$499
Bottle heater~$50-$150
Purge kit~$99-350
Remote bottle opener~$129-$300
N2O pressure gauge,electrical,dash mount~$150-$250
Second upgrades for more power
AFTERMARKET SCHOOL OF THOUGHT :
275+hp-300+hp range
First upgrades (as above)+
NGK plug#LZTR5AIX-1 (1 range colder than stock,.35-.40 gap)
Larger front mount intercooler (FMIC)
~$350-$1050 +10-20hp
60-55mm throttle body ~$250 +5-10hp
True 60mm throttle body+60mm spacer ~$370 +7-15hp
Ported manifold ~$250-$399 +10-20hp
-3" O2 sensor housing~$150-$180 +7-12hp
MOPAR SCHOOL OF THOUGHT :
260+hp-280+hp range
First upgrades (as above)+
Stage 2 mopar turbo upgrade ~$799 (w/o toys)=260 hp
Stage 2 mopar turbo upgrade ~$1299 (w/ toys)=280 hp
NITROUS SCHOOL OF THOUGHT:
Direct port "wet"EFI kit:
(NX,NOS,ZEX,DYNOTUNE,etc.)~$750-$1050=+100-150hp
Saftey upgrades (as above)+
Wahlbro 255 lph fuel pump ~$99-120
Aftermarket ignition,MSD#6211,or #6212 ~$318-$499
Clutch upgrade $650-$1100
Axle upgrade $770+
RECOMMENDED N20 ACCESORIES:
Progressive N20 controller~$350-$750
Third upgrades for more power
AFTERMARKET SCHOOL OF THOUGHT :
300+hp-650+hp range
Second upgrades (as above)+
BIG TURBO KIT $1550-$4000=150+hp-450+hp
BRAKE upgrade $650-$1850
Clutch upgrade $650-$1100
Axle upgrade $770+
MOPAR SCHOOL OF THOUGHT :
310+hp-365+hp range
Second upgrades (as above)+
Mopar 2.5" downpipe ~$350
Mopar clutch upgrade ~$550-$600
Stage 3 mopar turbo upgrade ~$3000 (w/o toys)=310 hp
Stage 3 mopar turbo upgrade ~$3599 (w/ toys)=365
hp
NITROUS SCHOOL OF THOUGHT:
Direct port "wet"EFI kit:
(NX,NOS,ZEX,DYNOTUNE,etc.)~$750-$1050=+170-250+hp
FORGED PISTONS~$450-$750
CRANE N20 SPECIFIC CAMS~$300
Saftey upgrades (as above)+
Progressive N20 controller~$350-$750
BASIC TUNING GUIDE
1.0 Intro
1.1 -Intro To Tuning
1.2 -Common Mistakes
1.21 -Raising Boost Prematurely
1.22 -Installing An Intake Prematurely
1.23 -Voiding Your Warranty
1.24 -Soft Break In
1.3 -The Order
|1.0| INTRO
This Guide is by no means completed or even started. I decided to post this guide and update throughout the next few days so that people can enjoy the information provided before I finish the entire paper.
|_____1.1 - INTRO TO TUNING
Tuning the SRT is like tuning any other car. It is nothing you should rush into. You should look at all your options and know exactly what you are doing. If you think tuning your SRT is something that will not require maintenance or time, you should look to a new hobby. If you are somebody that has the time, energy, and money to spend on this hobby I hope this guide helps you.
|_____1.2 - COMMON MISTAKES
Many people rush into tuning a car before understanding how the car works. Do some reseach, learn the "why" first,learn the "how" later.
|_____1.21 - RAISING BOOST PREMATURELY
People rushing for speed raise boost right away to gain 20, 30, even 40 horsepower. This is extreme dangerous and could lead to serious damage to your turbo and even your engine. I can’t stress this enough, 40 hp for free sounds great, but that for that price if something should happen, do NOT raise your boost levels until you have researched what you SRT and modifications can support.
-Staged upgrades on our car do allow for more boost.
---Stage 0 (stock) boosts to about 10-12 psi.
---Stage 1 boosts to about 14psi, unmodified.
---Stage 2 boosts to about 15-17psi redline,~20psi spike, unmodified.
Stage 2 boosts to about 19-20psi redline,~21-24psi spike, unmodified.
|_____1.22 - INSTALLING AN INTAKE
I fully understand the reasoning behind this mod in some SRT owner’s eyes. In most cars a good Intake is worth 5 to 10 hp. It does change the turbo spool sound to add a quite nice scream at full boost. The stock intake/airbox can support 400+ hp.
|_____1.23 - VOIDING YOUR WARRANTY
If you want to keep your car under warranty I would not recommend tuning at all. You can contract your dealer and find out what mods are acceptable, however even then risk the change of coverage. The best policy to assume is that if the car isn’t stock, it’s not covered. A simple Blow Off Valve can void your entire engine at some dealers.
|_____1.24 - SOFT BREAK IN
Oh no! He didn’t just say what I thought he said, did he? Yes I did. A highly debated decision even among professionals, should I baby my car at first or let it have it? The correct answer lies in the middle. So what’s the best way to break in an engine? Run it hard. Why? Nowadays, the piston ring seal is really what the break in process is all about. Contrary to popular belief, piston rings don’t seal the combustion pressure by spring tension. Ring tension is necessary only to scrape the oil to prevent it from entering the combustion chamber. If you think about it, the ring exerts maybe 5-10 lbs of spring tension against the cylinder wall … How can such a small amount of spring tension seal against thousands of PSI of combustion pressure?? It Can’t. So how do rings seal against tremendous combustion pressure? From the actual gas pressure itself! It passes over the top of the ring, and gets behind it to force it outward against the cylinder wall. The problem is that new rings are far from perfect and they must be worn in quite a bit in order to completely seal all the way around the bore. If the gas pressure is strong enough during the engine’s first miles of operation (WIDE OPEN), then the entire ring will wear into the cylinder surface, to seal the combustion pressure as well as possible. So what’s the problem with easy break ins? … The honed crosshatch pattern in the cylinder bore acts like a file to allow the rings to wear. The rings quickly wear down to peaks of this roughness, regardless of how hard the engine is run. In fact, if the rings aren’t sealed properly within the first 50 miles they will never be. Most engine problems are caused by two things in later engine life, not allowing the engine to warm up completely before running it, and easy break ins, either case is easily avoided. Oh no, I’ve already broken the car softly what can I do? First off, chances are you gunned it for that test drive at least once or twice (which is great to do) but if not, don’t worry. Horsepower loss around 4% due to improperly set rings. The only real way to correct it is to reinstall rings, but isn’t worth the hassle unless you are an active rally or track racer. Just keep an eye on those rings into the higher mileage.
|_____1.3 - THE ORDER
I lot of people have asked for my recommended order of upgrades and mods. For now I am just compiling a list for engine performance. For more details on any step please view the specific section for the upgrade.
First section deals with upgrades/parts/cost.
----------------------------------------------------
The second section give some basic theory behind "tuning" you SRT.
The tuning section is not really by me it was found on a WRX forum but Im going to modify it for our cars....PM... me if you would like to add info or think it needs modification.
Listed are some very basic guidelines for more power.
The srt-4 engine can handle approx 500hp/500wtrq on stock block and internals. After that internals will need to be upgraded. The stock cams are very good and do not need to be changed unless your going track/drag only.
I'm listing 3 versions of upgrades ...
AFTERMARKET SCHOOL OF THOUGHT :
For those that like to "tune" their SRT for max hp/$$$.Can use mods to build up more power. Can be tricky, may need constant tweaking.
MOPAR (DALE SEELEY) SCHOOL OF THOUGHT :
For those that like to bolt on parts from Mother Mopar and/or just want to bolt on hp and go. Extra $$$ is worth it for total drivability, plug-n-play convenience and reliability/durability.
NITROUS SCHOOL OF THOUGHT
Best $$$/per-HP ratio.Can be used in conjunction and compliment the above schools of thought.
MUST tuned and set up PROPERLY.
CAN be a very safe and reliable IF TUNED and set up PROPERLY,but remember mistakes with N20 are costly .
DO NOT EVEN CONSIDER A DRY KIT ON A TURBO CAR!!!
If you are unwilling to put in the time/research/setup/$$$ skip this.....
Noobies
--- SEARCH these terms if you are confused ----
First upgrades that are MUST haves for any SRT-4
$20 catch can :
What is it?
A can that keeps oil from getting into your intake.
/showthread.php?t=212
Aftermarket spark plug wires (MSD,Crane,Magnecore)~$50-$75
Mopar or aftermarket short throw shifter (STS) and urethane shifter bushings ~$120-$400
Motor Mounts :
Motor mounts (solid filled urethane,urethane inserts, dog bones,etc.) keeps your wheels from "hopping" in a launch and help you avoid breaking important things like oil pans, motor mount bolts and axels.
First upgrades for more power
AFTERMARKET SCHOOL OF THOUGHT :
240+hp-275+hp range
Stage 1 mopar upgrade $399=+10-15hp
Spark plugs:
NGK plug#LZTR5AIX-1 (1 range colder than stock,.40-.45 gap)
Exhaust
-cat back ~$300-$750=+7-12hp
-downpipe (cat-less) ~$149-$250 +10-15hp
-downpipe (high flow cat) ~$149-$350=+7-12hp
-full turbo-back exhuast (cat-less) ~$350-$1050=+12-25hp
-full turbo-back exhuast (high flow cat) ~$450-$1100=+12-25hp
Waste gate actuator (WGA) ~$149-$200=+12-25hp
Manual boost controller (MBC)~$30-$250=+12-25hp
OR
Electronic boost controller (EBC) ~$250-$650=+12-25hp
Intake ~$149-$350=+1-12hp
OR
K&N air filter(stock air box) ~$30-$75=+1-5hp
MOPAR SCHOOL OF THOUGHT :
240+hp-255+hp range
Stage 1 mopar turbo upgrade $399=+10-15hp
Exhaust Mopar cat back ~$300-$350=+7-12hp
Mopar air filter~$35=+1-5hp
NITROUS SCHOOL OF THOUGHT:
Basic "wet"EFI kit:
(NX,NOS,ZEX,DYNOTUNE,etc.)~$350-$650=+30-80hp
REQUIRED SAFTEY ITEMS:
Fuel pressure saftey switch ~$40
N2O pressure gauge,mechanical, on bottle ~$20-250
MSD RPM window switch~$90
Air/Fuel ratio saftey lean out switch~$80
Saftey"Blow Down" tube ~$25-$40
RECOMMENDED bolt on addtional parts:
Spark plugs:
NGK plug#LZTR5AIX-1 (1 range colder than stock,.30-.35 gap)
Wahlbro 255 lph fuel pump ~$99-120
Exhaust
-3" O2 sensor housing~$150-$180 +7-12hp
-cat back ~$300-$750=+7-12hp
-downpipe (cat-less) ~$149-$250 +10-15hp
-downpipe (high flow cat) ~$149-$350=+7-12hp
-full turbo-back exhuast (cat-less) ~$350-$1050=+12-25hp
-full turbo-back exhuast (high flow cat) ~$450-$1100=+12-25hp
RECOMMENDED N20 ACCESORIES
Aftermarket ignition,MSD#6211,or #6212 ~$318-$499
Bottle heater~$50-$150
Purge kit~$99-350
Remote bottle opener~$129-$300
N2O pressure gauge,electrical,dash mount~$150-$250
Second upgrades for more power
AFTERMARKET SCHOOL OF THOUGHT :
275+hp-300+hp range
First upgrades (as above)+
NGK plug#LZTR5AIX-1 (1 range colder than stock,.35-.40 gap)
Larger front mount intercooler (FMIC)
~$350-$1050 +10-20hp
60-55mm throttle body ~$250 +5-10hp
True 60mm throttle body+60mm spacer ~$370 +7-15hp
Ported manifold ~$250-$399 +10-20hp
-3" O2 sensor housing~$150-$180 +7-12hp
MOPAR SCHOOL OF THOUGHT :
260+hp-280+hp range
First upgrades (as above)+
Stage 2 mopar turbo upgrade ~$799 (w/o toys)=260 hp
Stage 2 mopar turbo upgrade ~$1299 (w/ toys)=280 hp
NITROUS SCHOOL OF THOUGHT:
Direct port "wet"EFI kit:
(NX,NOS,ZEX,DYNOTUNE,etc.)~$750-$1050=+100-150hp
Saftey upgrades (as above)+
Wahlbro 255 lph fuel pump ~$99-120
Aftermarket ignition,MSD#6211,or #6212 ~$318-$499
Clutch upgrade $650-$1100
Axle upgrade $770+
RECOMMENDED N20 ACCESORIES:
Progressive N20 controller~$350-$750
Third upgrades for more power
AFTERMARKET SCHOOL OF THOUGHT :
300+hp-650+hp range
Second upgrades (as above)+
BIG TURBO KIT $1550-$4000=150+hp-450+hp
BRAKE upgrade $650-$1850
Clutch upgrade $650-$1100
Axle upgrade $770+
MOPAR SCHOOL OF THOUGHT :
310+hp-365+hp range
Second upgrades (as above)+
Mopar 2.5" downpipe ~$350
Mopar clutch upgrade ~$550-$600
Stage 3 mopar turbo upgrade ~$3000 (w/o toys)=310 hp
Stage 3 mopar turbo upgrade ~$3599 (w/ toys)=365
hp
NITROUS SCHOOL OF THOUGHT:
Direct port "wet"EFI kit:
(NX,NOS,ZEX,DYNOTUNE,etc.)~$750-$1050=+170-250+hp
FORGED PISTONS~$450-$750
CRANE N20 SPECIFIC CAMS~$300
Saftey upgrades (as above)+
Progressive N20 controller~$350-$750
BASIC TUNING GUIDE
1.0 Intro
1.1 -Intro To Tuning
1.2 -Common Mistakes
1.21 -Raising Boost Prematurely
1.22 -Installing An Intake Prematurely
1.23 -Voiding Your Warranty
1.24 -Soft Break In
1.3 -The Order
|1.0| INTRO
This Guide is by no means completed or even started. I decided to post this guide and update throughout the next few days so that people can enjoy the information provided before I finish the entire paper.
|_____1.1 - INTRO TO TUNING
Tuning the SRT is like tuning any other car. It is nothing you should rush into. You should look at all your options and know exactly what you are doing. If you think tuning your SRT is something that will not require maintenance or time, you should look to a new hobby. If you are somebody that has the time, energy, and money to spend on this hobby I hope this guide helps you.
|_____1.2 - COMMON MISTAKES
Many people rush into tuning a car before understanding how the car works. Do some reseach, learn the "why" first,learn the "how" later.
|_____1.21 - RAISING BOOST PREMATURELY
People rushing for speed raise boost right away to gain 20, 30, even 40 horsepower. This is extreme dangerous and could lead to serious damage to your turbo and even your engine. I can’t stress this enough, 40 hp for free sounds great, but that for that price if something should happen, do NOT raise your boost levels until you have researched what you SRT and modifications can support.
-Staged upgrades on our car do allow for more boost.
---Stage 0 (stock) boosts to about 10-12 psi.
---Stage 1 boosts to about 14psi, unmodified.
---Stage 2 boosts to about 15-17psi redline,~20psi spike, unmodified.
Stage 2 boosts to about 19-20psi redline,~21-24psi spike, unmodified.
|_____1.22 - INSTALLING AN INTAKE
I fully understand the reasoning behind this mod in some SRT owner’s eyes. In most cars a good Intake is worth 5 to 10 hp. It does change the turbo spool sound to add a quite nice scream at full boost. The stock intake/airbox can support 400+ hp.
|_____1.23 - VOIDING YOUR WARRANTY
If you want to keep your car under warranty I would not recommend tuning at all. You can contract your dealer and find out what mods are acceptable, however even then risk the change of coverage. The best policy to assume is that if the car isn’t stock, it’s not covered. A simple Blow Off Valve can void your entire engine at some dealers.
|_____1.24 - SOFT BREAK IN
Oh no! He didn’t just say what I thought he said, did he? Yes I did. A highly debated decision even among professionals, should I baby my car at first or let it have it? The correct answer lies in the middle. So what’s the best way to break in an engine? Run it hard. Why? Nowadays, the piston ring seal is really what the break in process is all about. Contrary to popular belief, piston rings don’t seal the combustion pressure by spring tension. Ring tension is necessary only to scrape the oil to prevent it from entering the combustion chamber. If you think about it, the ring exerts maybe 5-10 lbs of spring tension against the cylinder wall … How can such a small amount of spring tension seal against thousands of PSI of combustion pressure?? It Can’t. So how do rings seal against tremendous combustion pressure? From the actual gas pressure itself! It passes over the top of the ring, and gets behind it to force it outward against the cylinder wall. The problem is that new rings are far from perfect and they must be worn in quite a bit in order to completely seal all the way around the bore. If the gas pressure is strong enough during the engine’s first miles of operation (WIDE OPEN), then the entire ring will wear into the cylinder surface, to seal the combustion pressure as well as possible. So what’s the problem with easy break ins? … The honed crosshatch pattern in the cylinder bore acts like a file to allow the rings to wear. The rings quickly wear down to peaks of this roughness, regardless of how hard the engine is run. In fact, if the rings aren’t sealed properly within the first 50 miles they will never be. Most engine problems are caused by two things in later engine life, not allowing the engine to warm up completely before running it, and easy break ins, either case is easily avoided. Oh no, I’ve already broken the car softly what can I do? First off, chances are you gunned it for that test drive at least once or twice (which is great to do) but if not, don’t worry. Horsepower loss around 4% due to improperly set rings. The only real way to correct it is to reinstall rings, but isn’t worth the hassle unless you are an active rally or track racer. Just keep an eye on those rings into the higher mileage.
|_____1.3 - THE ORDER
I lot of people have asked for my recommended order of upgrades and mods. For now I am just compiling a list for engine performance. For more details on any step please view the specific section for the upgrade.