Wheel Stud Replacement?

[djtig1]

Does anyone know how to remove the caliper retaining clips? (special tools?) I have to race tonight and need to upgrade my wheel studs! I checked the service manual, no help.

THX, Tiger

[lunchbox660]

whoa whoa whoa there tiger....caliper retaining clips? what are you doing? step back and take a breather, you are getting in too deep....

the procedure for wheel stud replacement is as follows:

Front studs:
with car in air of course...

remove the wheel, remove the two bolts holding on the caliper (18mm i beleive) slide off rotor while holding caliper or secure caliper to coilover spring utilizing saftey wire or the like

if calpier not secure, re-attach caliper by caliper LOWER bolt hole to spindle UPPER bolt hole so it is out of your way and not going to fall or rotate.

take a look at the backside of the front hub. there is a notch in there specifically for stud removal and replacement. if memory serves me correctly, it is towards the front end of the car. rotate hub until damaged stud is in line with the notch.

using a decently weighted hammer ( i like the small sledge) tap on the stud to loosen it. do not beat the hell out of it because two things can happen if you do...you can cause premature damage to the hub, and it can also cause the stud to come out at an angle and you wont be able to get it out and will hve to re-seat it and start over...so go lightly.

take new stud and smear some auto grease of pretty much any grade around the splines of the stud. this will facilitat a MUCH easier seating. now, using a stack of large washers and s crappy wheel lug, slide the stud into place, stack the washers on the stud, then thread the lug nut. get it till it is tight and begin to center the stud using only a hand tool to tighten it at first. this will ensure it is going in straight. once it begins to seat, you will need an impact gun to finish it off. BE CAREFUL as the use of an impact gun is probably what broke the stud in the first place. i recommend using the lower setting on the gun to do this.

once seated, clean the excess grease off with brake parts cleaner and re assemble the vehicle.

REAR:

remove wheel

remove planetary cap in center of hub with a small hammer and screwdriver. it takes a while to get under it good, but once you do it will come off easily.

remove hub lcking nut (32mm i beleive) washers and spring. make note of the order they go in.

remove brake caliper (10 mm) and secre out of the way

remove rotor (parking brake must be OFF to do this)

slide hub off. with the lockign nut off, it will come off easily. if it doesnt, look around and make sure you dont have somethig in the way.

place hub on a block of wood or something relatively soft and protective.

you can either pound the stud out and use the same procedure as the front, or you can put the hub on a hydraulic press. i prefer to use the press because it is easier and causes less wear and tear on the hub becaue you save from beating it.

reassemble


thats it...

BTW ive done this about 20 times....once you break that first one, youll usually break alot more, cus whatever caused it to break in the first place most likely occurred to all 20....

joe

[djtig1]

I believe this will help a lot. By retaining clips I meant to say rotor retaining clips. They are shown in the service manual, at the base of the wheel stud. I guess they help to hold the rotor on during assembly. Anyway, hopefully this will be all I need to do the replacement.

Thanks again, Tiger

[el_jefe]

anyone remember the aftermarket wheel stud of choice? I remeber it was discussed on the big forums, but I am too lazy to go and look for it. :lol:

[lunchbox660]

honestly, i buy the autozone ones. i bought the mopar ones at first, but i still broke them anyway. i got the autoazone ones for $.50 for the fronts and $.99 for the rears, and i have never broken one of them. there are other companies that sell "ultra high strength" ones, but the fact is, unless you have some INSANE HP and some INSANE brakes, the autozone studs will work fine. DO NOT USE IMPACT GUNS...thats the main point. the TQ rating for the lugs is only like 95-100 lbs....thats only hand tool tight, so there is NO reason to crank them down with a impact gun. thats why guys are stretchign the threads, crossthreading them, and snapping them off. realistically, if you never use and impact gun on the originals, the orogianls should last forever too. its just the gun that kills them.

[el_jefe]

i road race the car. It might become a track only vehicle, actually.

[lunchbox660]

well then the autozone studs will do ya JUST fine i think.

[pauliegee]

honestly, i buy the autozone ones. i bought the mopar ones at first, but i still broke them anyway. i got the autoazone ones for $.50 for the fronts and $.99 for the rears, and i have never broken one of them. there are other companies that sell "ultra high strength" ones, but the fact is, unless you have some INSANE HP and some INSANE brakes, the autozone studs will work fine. DO NOT USE IMPACT GUNS...thats the main point. the TQ rating for the lugs is only like 95-100 lbs....thats only hand tool tight, so there is NO reason to crank them down with a impact gun. thats why guys are stretchign the threads, crossthreading them, and snapping them off. realistically, if you never use and impact gun on the originals, the orogianls should last forever too. its just the gun that kills them.
I agree not to use impact guns unless you have a torque stick.

[Eulers Ghost]

regarding the autozones, I wish I had gone that route. I wound up buying the racing brake super heavy duty replacement ones at an insane price. Granted, they are holding up great, but since Im still below 400hp (guess) I would have rather spent the money on other things.

[pbui3057]

What happens if you put the new stud in and you are tightening it down when all of a sudden it starts to spin in the hole? My bro-in-laws zx2 needed 2 studs. There was no hole or cutout for replacement so I dremeled the top of the stud just a bit to slide pass the knuckle. One worked like a charm. The other seated properly but as soon as I put the wheel on, it spun on me. I only used hand tools. Can I put something on there to hold it in place like JB weld or something?

[lcq4blackstar]

boomba has the hi qual studs:thumb: (they also sell the 5mm longer ones)