Feelings on Yellow Top battery?

[Buckonine]

Thinking about swaping the stock battery out for a yellow top (maybe a red top). Just wondering if anyone had done it, how it has worked (any better/any worse). Also, is there anything better out there? Thoughts, options?

[liteshow]

From what I was always told is that they are great in everything but cold weather. I've had my Redtop since the last car. Goin on 3 years now and even with a system for some of it I have still not had any problems except the redtop quite doesn't fit inside the battery tray area.

[blackbird]

A red top that I had got discharged and never came back after sitting for a little while which is somewhat to be expected. The desert heat probably didn't do it much good either. But it still had a nice service life with the system I had in the car.

I'm not sure if they have any other sizes out, but to use one in the SRT-4 last I heard a couple years ago requires slightly modifying the battery tray. If you have a large audio system or other electronics that you like to run after the car is shut off then I'd lean towards the yellow top which has better discharge cycle characteristics. If you mostly run electronic stuff while it's running or are just looking for a drop in replacement I'd lean towards the red top since it should last and provide a little longer service life. I think they provide a little better cold cranking as well but you'd want to check the specs.


One other note on the spiral cell batteries. The Exide Orbital's (which are sold as other brands including one that was/is sold as a Mopar at the dealer) are a little taller than the specifications for the battery family used in a lot of the Mopar's. The battery terminal is a little too tall and can cause problems with hood clearance on some cars as I found out, and might be a problem on an SRT-4 that is running an Iceman intake with the rotated battery tray.

[lunchbox660]

i really like my Odyssey battery. its small so it takes up much less space and looks nice in the engine bay, and it has plenty of cranking power. you can get the complete kit from www.jmbperformance.com for less than the cost of the battery alone from most other places....its a damn good deal!

[liteshow]

The small one JMB supplies with the ultimate intake caused problems for one of the CSC guys. Ice cold day and he needed a jump.

[punkrokdood]

The small one JMB supplies with the ultimate intake caused problems for one of the CSC guys. Ice cold day and he needed a jump.
us cali people never have to worry about that :lol: :thumb:

[blackbird]

If you don't have to worry about the cold and you don't have a large stereo system or other high drains then the Hawker/EnerSys Odyssey's (http://www.enersysreservepower.com/ody_b.asp?brandID=5?brandID=5) are a nice way to save some weight and space.

Beside a lot of other good turbo info, there's some battery info about them here (http://www.stealth316.com/2-dynabatt.htm).

[svt2srt4]

you definetly have to alter the battery tray and get extension or modify the power cables to get them to fit, this is why my red top is presently on the floor in my garage..but if you have a choice go with the yellow top:thumb:

[Eulers Ghost]

The battery terminal is a little too tall and can cause problems with hood clearance on some cars as I found out, and might be a problem on an SRT-4 that is running an Iceman intake with the rotated battery tray.

can you get that separately? I want to rotate my battery due to clearance issues and that would help greatly.

[blackbird]

Nope, and I don't think they're even making the intakes anymore. But considering the fitment that might not be such a bad thing. I've got two of their trays (early production and replacement one they sent me) and they both have a problem with the cable on the negative terminal hitting the hood. The second one wasn't as bad it you're careful with the cable angle its installed. Of course you could just think of that as a free grounding kit. :lol:




..but if you have a choice go with the yellow top:thumb:Depending on what you want from it. The yellow tops are a decent amount more expensive and they are better for deep discharge/recharge cycles. But the red top is cheaper, it has more cranking power, and it has nearly as much reserve capacity. Unless you're doing things like audio competitions and draining and charging the battery constantly there's not really much need for a yellow top, and for starting the red top is better anyways.


Red (http://www.optimabatteries.com/publish/optima/americas0/en/config/product_info/automotive/starter/technical_specs.html) vs. yellow (http://www.optimabatteries.com/publish/optima/americas0/en/config/product_info/automotive/deep_cycle/technical_specs.html).

[Buckonine]

See, I have a fairly deceint stereo setup...and the lights do dim. (upgraded big 3, and a cap) I don't really like the idea of modifing the tray, what happens when I want to attach a stock battery again? I would like a red top at least...damn not fitting...

[lunchbox660]

See, I have a fairly deceint stereo setup...and the lights do dim. (upgraded big 3, and a cap) I don't really like the idea of modifing the tray, what happens when I want to attach a stock battery again? I would like a red top at least...damn not fitting...

i used to run a big subwoofer setup too for a while and even with 0/2 cables and a 1.0 farad cap the lights still dimmed. i dont think it has anything to do with flow, cus OBVIOUSLY i had that covered. i think the stock alternator is being regulated too much by the PCM and its causing surge issues when installing big stereos. i gave up and stripped the car and started racing it instead...

[liteshow]

The Optima batteries do fit in there but like mine has never been held down by anything. It's sorta just in there and the CAI keeps it from falling on the ground.

old pix...
http://www.csc-media.com/car%20pix/7.jpg

[blackbird]

See, I have a fairly deceint stereo setup...and the lights do dim. (upgraded big 3, and a cap) I don't really like the idea of modifing the tray, what happens when I want to attach a stock battery again? I would like a red top at least...damn not fitting...
Well the battery tray is essentially integral to the driver side transaxle mount, and the top part that comprises the actual tray does come off. That's the only part replaced on the Iceman intake setup. If you were really worried about it you might be able to fabricate a different tray out of thick sheet metal with a similar hold down (that uses two long bolts and a bar across the top of the batter). Also if you're getting dimming just dropping in a replacement battery like this usually won't help much. The Optima's are a great battery that can withstand a lot of heat and vibration and have the benefit of being easier to mount inside a passenger compartment. But I'd go through the common things like the grounds and the wiring on your system first. Like mentioned the voltage regulation is controlled by the computer, and the SRT-4 does have a fairly nice sized alternator from the factory. I wouldn't recommend it but you could also try an external voltage regulator and bypass the PCM.

If it's mostly the headlamps that are bothering you, the wiring for them isn't the best from the factory to start with. That could be just as big of a problem. You could also try re-wiring them or better yet completely avoid the stock underhood wiring harness and just use a relay to run a direct power source from the battery (or the primary underhood power distribution box) to the headlamps.

[Buckonine]

Well the battery tray is essentially integral to the driver side transaxle mount, and the top part that comprises the actual tray does come off. That's the only part replaced on the Iceman intake setup. If you were really worried about it you might be able to fabricate a different tray out of thick sheet metal with a similar hold down (that uses two long bolts and a bar across the top of the batter). Also if you're getting dimming just dropping in a replacement battery like this usually won't help much. The Optima's are a great battery that can withstand a lot of heat and vibration and have the benefit of being easier to mount inside a passenger compartment. But I'd go through the common things like the grounds and the wiring on your system first. Like mentioned the voltage regulation is controlled by the computer, and the SRT-4 does have a fairly nice sized alternator from the factory. I wouldn't recommend it but you could also try an external voltage regulator and bypass the PCM.

If it's mostly the headlamps that are bothering you, the wiring for them isn't the best from the factory to start with. That could be just as big of a problem. You could also try re-wiring them or better yet completely avoid the stock underhood wiring harness and just use a relay to run a direct power source from the battery (or the primary underhood power distribution box) to the headlamps.

See, I not saying I'm lazy, it is just I'm lazy...I can fab another tray, but don't feel it is worth the effort. I will have to get into the car and figure out what I need to do with the lights though...

[blackbird]

See, I not saying I'm lazy, it is just I'm lazy...I can fab another tray, but don't feel it is worth the effort. I will have to get into the car and figure out what I need to do with the lights though...


battery source --> fuse -------> relay ---------------> headlights
.............................................. ^........................^
.............................................. |..........direct.......|
.............................................. |..........ground ----
.............................................. |
headlight switch -------------------

[Alec Trevelyan]

Never had one problem with a yellow top (optima)in any car I ever owned....go for it!