SRT4 VS MUSTANG GT VS TRAILBLAZER SS

[badazzsrt4]

Here's a video I think everyone will enjoy. Boost was set @ 17-13, full exhaust, intake, bov and msd coil & wires. Let me know what you guy and girls think.
http://www.salinasracing.com/videos/AcE/TBSSvsSRT4vsGT.wmv

[svt2srt4]

badass...just proves..
srt-4>tb ss>mustang gt

[blackbird]

Heck, my minivan > that year Mustang GT. :rofl:

[svt2srt4]

yeah that mustang took a hell of a beating from both cars...pos mustang FTl :rofl:rofl:

[gudeman00]

Mods on the SRT?
and mods on the trailblazer? he smoked that gt :rofl:

[badazzsrt4]

3" downpipe, magnaflow catback, weapon-r intake, msd coil & wires, turbo xs blowoff valve, agp wastegate actuator (psi 17-13)shifting at 5200.

[svt2srt4]

3" downpipe, magnaflow catback, weapon-r intake, msd coil & wires, turbo xs blowoff valve, agp wastegate actuator (psi 17-13)shifting at 5200.
i would have to say good job, you had some nice pulls no misshifts or bs...for your mods that was awesome:thumb:

[badazzsrt4]

Actually the first run between the mustang and the trailblazer I actually missed second, I need to get the booger bushing, but I really like the hurst shifter. I have the front mount, intercooler piping and crank pulley going on this weekend, and hopefully next week I can get it tuned. The mustang had exhaust, intake, tb and programmer, and the SS had programmer and cold air intake. The SS is also all wheel drive.

[gudeman00]

Actually the first run between the mustang and the trailblazer I actually missed second, I need to get the booger bushing, but I really like the hurst shifter. I have the front mount, intercooler piping and crank pulley going on this weekend, and hopefully next week I can get it tuned. The mustang had exhaust, intake, tb and programmer, and the SS had programmer and cold air intake. The SS is also all wheel drive.

How are you going to tune your car with just a wga, intake, and intercooler?

[badazzsrt4]

My buddy works for his dad at a performance shop, he has program a a dyno, all I am waiting for is the program for the srt4. If it doesn't happen in the next week then I will get the Apexi AFC.:rofl:
My car runs very rich right now so I am also going to get a map clamp and a return fuel line. Does aaronneon still sell these?

[svt2srt4]

if it's rich then you need a map clamp and a wideband....and with stage 1 injectors will have you running rich with your mods...

[gudeman00]

My buddy works for his dad at a performance shop, he has program a a dyno, all I am waiting for is the program for the srt4. If it doesn't happen in the next week then I will get the Apexi AFC.:rofl:
My car runs very rich right now so I am also going to get a map clamp and a return fuel line. Does aaronneon still sell these?

Yes he still sells them but if youre running very rich you don't need a return line.

[svt2srt4]

i thought i was making that point, if not then yeah you don't need a returnline...get a wideband with that money

[punkrokdood]

i thought i was making that point, if not then yeah you don't need a returnline...get a wideband with that money
:bs:

ditch the mapclamp, get the return line and an afc, then run 20lbs of boost, w/ an 11.5 a/f ratio... it'll rip

don't hold your breath for an "srt program" its not happening. its been talked about since the birth of the srt-4, and its not gonna happen, definately not in the next week


edit... get a wideband too :lol:

[svt2srt4]

i repeat with your mods you do not need a return line get the wideband first, then monitor your air/fuel ratios if your rich get a map clamp/safc i prefer the safc then tune it to no higher the 11.8 @ redline on 91 octane, now if you find your leaner then you thought anywhere around 11.8 in the 4500-5500 range without the safc/clamp then get the returnline...and don't listen to people telling you to get stage 2 injectors, its way too much fuel for your mods and you won't be able to dial enough fuel out of them to make any real power...but as usual this is IMO

[punkrokdood]

i repeat with your mods you do not need a return line get the wideband first, then monitor your air/fuel ratios if your rich get a map clamp/safc i prefer the safc then tune it to no higher the 11.8 @ redline on 91 octane, now if you find your leaner then you thought anywhere around 11.8 in the 4500-5500 range without the safc/clamp then get the returnline...and don't listen to people telling you to get stage 2 injectors, its way too much fuel for your mods and you won't be able to dial enough fuel out of them to make any real power...but as usual this is IMO
return line is better than stage2 injectors IMO. i'm saying get a return line so he can use his mods to their potential :deal:

even just and upgraded WGA can not be used to its full potential without fuel mods

[svt2srt4]

return line is better than stage2 injectors IMO. i'm saying get a return line so he can use his mods to their potential :deal:

even just and upgraded WGA can not be used to its full potential without fuel mods
i agree and disagree, it all depends how much fuel he is currently getting..not all srt-4's have the same afr's with the same mods...we found this out at dyno day...a returnline i would have to say is highly recommened either way but, i think wideband is the most important then access the next mod depending on afr's, but yes the returnline is 100% better then stage 2 injectors on stock unmolested turbo with mild mods...i found this out the hard way...PRD knows his shit so follow either opinion but keep in mind these are just our opinions based on our own modding ventures..

[punkrokdood]

i agree and disagree, it all depends how much fuel he is currently getting..not all srt-4's have the same afr's with the same mods...we found this out at dyno day...a returnline i would have to say is highly recommened either way but, i think wideband is the most important then access the next mod depending on afr's, but yes the returnline is 100% better then stage 2 injectors on stock unmolested turbo with mild mods...i found this out the hard way...PRD knows his shit so follow either opinion but keep in mind these are just our opinions based on our own modding ventures..
i meant after getting a wideband of course... :lol:
you can also lean the car out with a return line, it isn't always gonna add fuel :thumb:

yes, wideband is the best next step. however once that is done, for fuel delivery and control, i reccommend a return line and dtec. up the fuel to pig rich, up the boost till it leans out to 11.5ish@redline, or you hit 20-21 psi (whichever comes first) then use the dtec to pull fuel in the midrange to keep a consistant 11.5 a/f ratio. on the stock turbo with the way it drops boost to redline, its probably best (aaronneon reccommends this as well) to run the FPR without a vacuum source. if you have a boost referenced source, its possible to run lean up top, but way to rich in the mid range. just run about 80 psi on s1 injectors, and that'll give you S2 injectors fuel levels, then trim the rest out with the dtec/safc/etc.

[badazzsrt4]

To let you know I am now running 20psi falling to 15-16 since that race. The car pulls very strong. When I first dynoed my car with intake, dp and exhaust I made 248 horsepower with 274 ft. lbs of torque, the afr was if I remember correctly around 13-14.
I understand what both of you guys are trying to say but what you don't know is that in a few months I am getting the agp turbo upgrade, thats why I want the return line and the reason I will be getting the afc.
I will be getting 750cc injectors and walbro fuel pump to go with it.
The map clamp was just for now.

[punkrokdood]

To let you know I am now running 20psi falling to 15-16 since that race. The car pulls very strong. When I first dynoed my car with intake, dp and exhaust I made 248 horsepower with 274 ft. lbs of torque, the afr was if I remember correctly around 13-14.
that is WAY to lean at wide open throttle. and another thing, on the street you can run as much as a full point leaner than you do on the dyno. so its possible you are running 14 or 15:1 on the street. 12.5 is the ABSOLUTE leanest you should EVER be on a turbo car :yikes:

11.5-12.5 is the range for maximum horsepower and reasonable safety. you MIGHT make a little more power going leaner than that, but the safety is lost faster than the power is gained

[svt2srt4]

that motor will pop soon, pump gas and 13-14's equals kaboom...

[svt2srt4]

To let you know I am now running 20psi falling to 15-16 since that race. The car pulls very strong. When I first dynoed my car with intake, dp and exhaust I made 248 horsepower with 274 ft. lbs of torque, the afr was if I remember correctly around 13-14.
I understand what both of you guys are trying to say but what you don't know is that in a few months I am getting the agp turbo upgrade, thats why I want the return line and the reason I will be getting the afc.
I will be getting 750cc injectors and walbro fuel pump to go with it.
The map clamp was just for now.
you wont need 750cc injectors and a returnline for a turbo upgrade unless its a huge turbo runnin tons of boost...just get the return line for now....also how do you know your afr's without a wideband? are you using the dyno's afr's? if so keep in mind shit changes and tuning on a dyno then driving on the street with the same tune and no way to monitor your afr's will result in your motor blowing...but hey its your car..:dunno:

[spools]

yes... the eugo was the VERY first thing i bought for my car...and trust me, that shit changes alot.. i have got mine set perfect in the 11'1 and then the next day BAM 13's... WTF! so ya, it will save your motor more than enough times.. (temperature changes are a bitch)

[badazzsrt4]

True. The dyno afr is not accurate, but it gives an close idea. Next month I will invest in the AEM Eugo.

[blackbird]

Don't get an AEM unless you want to just buy into a brand name and never be able to data log. And are they still stuck at only reading down to 11:1? I'd recommend looking into an Innovate LC-1/XD-16 combo if you're main interested is a "nice looking gauge". It'll be a lot more accurate as the sensor ages and you can still ad on data logging options late if you really start getting into tuning and heavy modifications.

Another thing, the air/fuel ratio's are going to be different on different types of cars. While a 12.5:1 is usually safe on a lot of other cars, if you have an SRT-4 on the stock turbo it's going to be too restrictive on the exhaust side and I wouldn't run that lean all the time on pump gas. Maybe occasionally at the track if you're running race gas to limit the chance of detonation, but heat kills. It could be at once or over the long-haul. And anything over 13:1 at WOT ever is signing a death sentence to your engine.

[svt2srt4]

Don't get an AEM unless you want to just buy into a brand name and never be able to data log. And are they still stuck at only reading down to 11:1? I'd recommend looking into an Innovate LC-1/XD-16 combo if you're main interested is a "nice looking gauge". It'll be a lot more accurate as the sensor ages and you can still ad on data logging options late if you really start getting into tuning and heavy modifications.

Another thing, the air/fuel ratio's are going to be different on different types of cars. While a 12.5:1 is usually safe on a lot of other cars, if you have an SRT-4 on the stock turbo it's going to be too restrictive on the exhaust side and I wouldn't run that lean all the time on pump gas. Maybe occasionally at the track if you're running race gas to limit the chance of detonation, but heat kills. It could be at once or over the long-haul. And anything over 13:1 at WOT ever is signing a death sentence to your engine.
they read down to 10.0 and i have a data log line on mine ...:thumb:

[blackbird]

So the new, cheaper ones finally display that low. I checked it out and they can output the wideband A/F over RS-232 serial, but have you tried data logging only the AFR? Without at least rpm's you'd be better off mounting a camcorder in the car. And what about the logging software quality? I still stand behind my line of thought that if you might need or want to data log the AEM is at the very bottom of the list.

[svt2srt4]

So the new, cheaper ones finally display that low. I checked it out and they can output the wideband A/F over RS-232 serial, but have you tried data logging only the AFR? Without at least rpm's you'd be better off mounting a camcorder in the car. And what about the logging software quality? I still stand behind my line of thought that if you might need or want to data log the AEM is at the very bottom of the list.
lol...i used a vid camera in my race car project when we dynoed to data log the whole run...:rofl: :rofl:

edit:redneck datalogging FTW:thumb:

[blackbird]

No, real rednecks have their friend in the passenger seat with a Polaroid. :lol:

[svt2srt4]

No, real rednecks have their friend in the passenger seat with a Polaroid. :lol:
works for me...:rofl:

[KnightRider]

All you need is to get a Stage 1 ECU and you will stop runing rich and you wont throw codes

[punkrokdood]

they read down to 10.0 and i have a data log line on mine ...:thumb:
since when???? :yikes:

[punkrokdood]

All you need is to get a Stage 1 ECU and you will stop runing rich and you wont throw codes
:3stooges: :juggle: :speechles