evil_2
10-27-2006, 09:20 PM
Ok, here is a small How-To for a clutch install.
First, get the service manual and follow the directions for taking off the T850 Tranny (SRT-4 Transmission).
Drain the transmission fluid! When the half shafts are removed, it will pour out.
Do yourself a favor, and wrap up any openings to the turbo piping, the intake mani, and the turbo itself. That way you won't have anything harmful get into the system.
This is what needs to be removed:
Stock Air Box
Battery and the Battery Tray.
Cold side intercooler pipe
Throttle Body & Adapter plate
Disconnect the slave cylinder to master cylinder via the quick connect fitting. The white piece is what is forced down to unhook it.
Hot side intercooler pipe (just the hard part, the soft part <if it's stock> doesn't need to be taken off)
Oil/Coolant line bracket (the piece that holds the hot side with two nuts, the bolts have to be removed too and then the lines can just hang there)
Starter (its brace is one(or two?) of the bell housing bolts, once the starter was off and the brace removed, I just left the starter hanging by the wire)
Lateral support brace, for the bell housing (under the starter)
Drive plate cover (don't know what it's called but once removed, that is how you get to the bolts that hold the drive plate/gear to the modular clutch. You have to remove one bolt at a time. There is 4. You have to have a big screw driver or something to spin the drive plate to get to all the bolts.)
Take the shift linkage/cables off the bushings, and also the shift cable brace that bolts to the bell housing (it's under the surge valve)
Both front wheels, then the strut bolts to the hub (you don't have to remove the struts)
ABS line (one on each side of the car)
Both half shafts (axle) and on the passenger side the intermediate shaft along with the brace that holds it to the block. Easiest way to remove the half shafts is to have someone on the brakes while you loosen the nut that holds it to the hub (1.25" socket).
Now.... once the passenger side shaft and brace is removed, there is a 18mm bolt that is hard to get to. It's above where the intermediate shaft goes into the tranny/lsd and above the speed sensor. I ended up using an impact gun with 140psi of pressure behind it, and it came off like nothing! You might want to disconnect the speed sensor and move it out of the way to prevent damaging it. It is held on by a clip, the clip has a red lock on it. Move the red part to the side to unlock it, then push down the tab and it comes right off.
The bracket that supports the o2 housing gets in the way of that hard to get bolt, so that was removed too (might only be on S3R?)
Of course the tranny mount has to be removed.
Only remove it when the tranny is being supported by a hydraulic jack!
Support the engine when taking the tranny away! Jack stands do fine.
Make sure to have help taking the tranny out, cause it is heavy. It is not really evenly balanced on any good jacking spot…
Be sure to mark the slotted hole on the drive plate to the one going to the clutch. Because one bolt hole on the clutch will most likely be LOWER than the other three. (That's how it was for me, and that is what is considered aligning the clutch) If you don't mark it, you'll end up guessing which one is which until you get the right one (that's what I ended up doing, whoops!) So basically, before the clutch goes in, make sure all the holes will line up with each other, and the odd one marked for the slotted hole on the drive plate.
You’ll need.
4 jack stands for the vehicle
1 jack stand for the engine
1 hydraulic jack for the tranny
Half shaft bolt to the hub is 1 and ¼“ (1.25�) bolt.
Everything else is in metric sizes. Be sure to have ratcheting wrenches, ½� drive, 3/8� drive, and all the MM sizes. 6� and 12� extensions help a lot.
Sorry if the how-to is a little basic. I just don’t have enough time to really go into detail. You’ll figure it out for yourself! This is just a simple guide to what you will have to do!
First, get the service manual and follow the directions for taking off the T850 Tranny (SRT-4 Transmission).
Drain the transmission fluid! When the half shafts are removed, it will pour out.
Do yourself a favor, and wrap up any openings to the turbo piping, the intake mani, and the turbo itself. That way you won't have anything harmful get into the system.
This is what needs to be removed:
Stock Air Box
Battery and the Battery Tray.
Cold side intercooler pipe
Throttle Body & Adapter plate
Disconnect the slave cylinder to master cylinder via the quick connect fitting. The white piece is what is forced down to unhook it.
Hot side intercooler pipe (just the hard part, the soft part <if it's stock> doesn't need to be taken off)
Oil/Coolant line bracket (the piece that holds the hot side with two nuts, the bolts have to be removed too and then the lines can just hang there)
Starter (its brace is one(or two?) of the bell housing bolts, once the starter was off and the brace removed, I just left the starter hanging by the wire)
Lateral support brace, for the bell housing (under the starter)
Drive plate cover (don't know what it's called but once removed, that is how you get to the bolts that hold the drive plate/gear to the modular clutch. You have to remove one bolt at a time. There is 4. You have to have a big screw driver or something to spin the drive plate to get to all the bolts.)
Take the shift linkage/cables off the bushings, and also the shift cable brace that bolts to the bell housing (it's under the surge valve)
Both front wheels, then the strut bolts to the hub (you don't have to remove the struts)
ABS line (one on each side of the car)
Both half shafts (axle) and on the passenger side the intermediate shaft along with the brace that holds it to the block. Easiest way to remove the half shafts is to have someone on the brakes while you loosen the nut that holds it to the hub (1.25" socket).
Now.... once the passenger side shaft and brace is removed, there is a 18mm bolt that is hard to get to. It's above where the intermediate shaft goes into the tranny/lsd and above the speed sensor. I ended up using an impact gun with 140psi of pressure behind it, and it came off like nothing! You might want to disconnect the speed sensor and move it out of the way to prevent damaging it. It is held on by a clip, the clip has a red lock on it. Move the red part to the side to unlock it, then push down the tab and it comes right off.
The bracket that supports the o2 housing gets in the way of that hard to get bolt, so that was removed too (might only be on S3R?)
Of course the tranny mount has to be removed.
Only remove it when the tranny is being supported by a hydraulic jack!
Support the engine when taking the tranny away! Jack stands do fine.
Make sure to have help taking the tranny out, cause it is heavy. It is not really evenly balanced on any good jacking spot…
Be sure to mark the slotted hole on the drive plate to the one going to the clutch. Because one bolt hole on the clutch will most likely be LOWER than the other three. (That's how it was for me, and that is what is considered aligning the clutch) If you don't mark it, you'll end up guessing which one is which until you get the right one (that's what I ended up doing, whoops!) So basically, before the clutch goes in, make sure all the holes will line up with each other, and the odd one marked for the slotted hole on the drive plate.
You’ll need.
4 jack stands for the vehicle
1 jack stand for the engine
1 hydraulic jack for the tranny
Half shaft bolt to the hub is 1 and ¼“ (1.25�) bolt.
Everything else is in metric sizes. Be sure to have ratcheting wrenches, ½� drive, 3/8� drive, and all the MM sizes. 6� and 12� extensions help a lot.
Sorry if the how-to is a little basic. I just don’t have enough time to really go into detail. You’ll figure it out for yourself! This is just a simple guide to what you will have to do!