camshaft removal and install...how to

[evil_2]

Here I am providing a guide that will help with removing and installing your new cams. If I have left anything out please post. Let's try to get a good thread of information to make the install as easy as possible and to help cut off on the how-to question in the section. I'll try to cover every little detail as possible. Thanks.
UPDATED ON 10-16-06
SRTED4EVER provided some helpful tips for the sticky (THANKS). little tip,1 I use especialy when Iam removing a head,after marking the crank,and other spots on the timing belt @ TDC. After I remove the T belt from the cam sprockets, I rotate the crank counter clockwise 2 the 9o'clock position, this is were all the pistons are @ there lowest position in the block. This helps prevent valves from hitting the pistons if the cams are accidently rolled or the head is removed. Even though the pistons are deep dished 2 make 8:1 compression, its better xtra safe then sorry!!! This is just what I do when working on a 2.4 use it if u think it will help??? o'yeah dont forget to rotate the crank back to 12'oclock when reinsalling the belt
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UPDATED ON 3-13-06
AglieSRT provided some good information (tips, tricks) to cams installation. What I'm going to do it post his above my actual installation guide. You should take the two and compare them. His tips and tricks should be followed to avoid any unnecessary removal that's not needed.
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UPDATED ON 11-19-05
A few tips from Mario03SRT . . .

If you're going to do the Crime........You gotta do the Time.

The first go around is always a bitch. Ya the clearance between the frame rail and the engine support bracket is a bitch. You must up and down the engine to clear the long bolts. There is no work around that I know of. Also getting off the timing belt cover sucks too. It has to come off to get the cams out. The crank pulley is a bitch too and requires some heat usually also.

To make the job easier next time, don't put the cover back on. Just leave it off the motor. There is enough shielding to keep out small rocks etc. I ran my ACR that way for a year and a half w/o issues. This also provides zero issues with the new cam gears from rubbing and allows for easy adjustment. It will speed up any future cam swaps.

Luckily the belt tensioner is much improved over the hydraulic type in the older neon.

[evil_2]

UPDATED ON 08/18/05

Some quick tips and tricks of the install, From Super Steve...
- Quick Install Summary
Installation is where the fun begins. It is a real pain in the ass. The passenger side motor mount plate must be remove and in order to do that, you have to remove both the upper and lower motor mounts. Then you have have to jack up the motor on the passenger side really high to access the MM plate botls to access the timing belt cover assembly. It takes some help to help pry the motor towards the drivers side to get the plate out. It really sucks.
Once that is out then you can remove the UD pulley and timing covers and take the timing belt off. Now you can begin removing the cams. Now take the cam sensor off the stock intake cam and place the sensor in the "B" holes of the Crane intake cam. Make sure the when you go to install the cams that none of the pistons are at the top of the cylinders. You can do this by placing the motor on TDC and then turn the motor clockwise 90 degrees. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT WHEN YOU GO TO TORQUE THE CAMS DOWN. Once the cams are installed you can either put the stock cam gears back on or go with the Fidanza gears. Make sure the fidanza gears are set at zero (More on this later). Now you can put the motor back on TDC ensuring that the lower timing gear is lined up with the arrow and the cam gear lines are facing each other horizontally. I used a ruler to get mine dead accurate. Now tighten the timing belt tensioner properly according to the service manual. (You'll want the service manual when you do this job)

-Tips and Tricks
- Make sure you recieve the cams that have the extra set of holes.
- With the Cam Sensor removed, ensure the tangs of the sensor are insterted into the "B" holes. They will be scribed on the end fo the cam
- Make sure to order a new valve cover gasket
- Buy new items; timing belt, timing belt idler pulley, and the water pump. All these items aren't very expensive and it is better to do them now than wait until they go out.
- The MM mounting plate sucks trying to get out but it can be done. Take your time and work with it.
-BE AWARE OF,ensure that you follow the manual for timing belt adjustments. Absolute TDC must be acomplished when making the adjustments. This of course is AFTER you properly torgue down the cams. Now then, when you go to put the valve cover gasket on, ensure that you put Mopar grey sealant(It's the best) in all coners where the outside cam caps are located. Otherwise the cover will leak oil. You only need a dab in 8 places.
- Only choose the 12s or 14s. Any grind number higher you will need head work. Make sure to have a few other supporting mods; bigger exhaust, bigger IC, bigger intake, etc.
- If you use the aftermarket cam gears, you will have to grind a portion of the MM plate for the cam gears to clear. It's no big deal and you only need to grind back enough for the cam gear adjustment bolts to clear (I'd say grind back 1/8" all the way across the top of the MM plate and down about 1.5 inches. You will grind the area just below the top MM purch which bolts into the top of the MM plate) Also, you will no longer be able to use the plastic top timing cover. The gears won't clear because of the bolts.
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Camshaft Removal and Installation Guide:
Both camshafts have six bearing journal surfaces and two cam lobes per cylinder. Flanges at the rear journals control camshaft endplay. Provision for a cam position sensor is located on the intake camshaft on the rear of the cylinder head. A hydrodynamic oil seal is used for oil control at the front of the camshaft
-Camshaft Operation- The camshaft is driven by the crankshaft via drive sprockets and belt. The camshaft has precisely machined lobes to provide accurate valve timing and duration.
Removal Of Stock Cams:
Removing the stock cams will require you to remove the cylinder head cover, camshaft position sensor, timing belt, camshaft sprockets, timing belt rear cover, upper & lower timing belt covers, and any components attached to these.
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Tips & Tricks removal guide provided by AgileSRT (good info)
UPDATED ON 3-13-06
(Note: I have still provided the complete install guide below this. This should be compared to the install guide to help you better)
My experience at removing and installing 2.0 camshafts and 2.4 adjustable cam gears::::::::::::::::::::::::::

Things to do beforehand:

-have torque wrench
-have gasket maker/RTV/copper sealant or any of the sort
-jack up car front and set on jackstands for easiest access to part locations
-If installing 2.0 cams, you must change the magnet sensor on the end of the stock 2.4L cam you are removing, a black ring of sort, to the new 2.0L cam in order for the SRT PCM to recognize it. IF YOU DON'T DO THIS, YOUR CAR WILL SCREW UP BAD LIKE MINE AND GO INTO LIMP MODE. SO PLEASE REMEMBER TO DO THIS WHEN CHANGING CAMS. YOU CAN DO THIS AFTER INSTALL IF WANTED AS THE SENSOR CAN BE REMOVED EITHER ON OR OFF THE CAR EITHER WAY FROM CAM TO CAM.

1) Remove Valve Cover aka Cylinder Head
-Disconnect negative battery terminal (as always when modding stuff, safety first)
-Disconnect coil pack, plug wires, remove all from cover
- Disconnect PCV and make-up air hoses from cover
- Unclip wiring harness from cylinder head cover studs.
- Remove nut securing coolant return line bracket to cylinder head cover stud.
- Remove cylinder head cover fasteners.
- Remove entire valve cover now. Be mindful of gasket underneath, it should stay kept down, just watch it, because you can't rip this unless you have another to replace it with!

2) Remove camshaft position sensor on side of cover where intake pipe is located. Unclip the sensor, it has a red clip like all in our cars do, just don't break it, you'll have to pry it up with a flathead, at least I did. You will have to finangle it out from next to a coolant line along the cover's side, just work it around, not difficult at all. Be careful, very delicate pieces and may be $$$ to replace. Not hard to be careful with, just don't break any clips or anything This unplugs the sensor clip, and removes the actual piece the sensor clips INTO. Remove BOTH.

3) Removal of upper Front Cover of Timing Belt (this is the opposite side of where you were just working on the motor, there's a big plastic cover that looks like an oval, inside is the timing belt/cam gears themselves)
-First remove the top motor mount.
-Here you can take two routes. One is the following way, the other is the step after in BLUE font, which is by far easier and less time consuming, but requires a certain tool.
-Remove small flat black torque strut (motor mount) bracket from engine. This is located on the actual car's frame, you'll see it in there next to motor. It's a small flat black hanger type thing that has a few small bolts on it.
-Remove passenger wheel, look in wheel well and see a pretty good sized black rubber grommet. Pry it out with a flathead and you'll see a rather large sized TORX bolt. Remove this bolt and this bolt is the main piece that goes RIGHT THROUGH the bracket I listed above for you to remove. This is by far easier and allows you to jack up the motor later on a great distance for removal of cams/gears. I HIGHLY SUGGEST THIS ROUTE.
-Finally remove the upper front cover by taking out the cover fasteners and pulling it off. There's three small fasteners that hold it together, if I remember I think it's just philips screws.

4) Removal of Lower Front Cover
-Jack up car if not already done so and remove passenger front wheel if not already done so
-Remove the splash shield that is under the car below the intercooler piping. It's just a few bolts or screws.

5) Removing Accessory Drive Belts. 2 belts get removed here, the power steering pump/AC compressor belt, and your alternator belt. (If possible, replace these belts while under there, inexpensive to do so and is necessary eventually anyhow. Hydrophopper advises if your vehicle is +10mos. old, do this, but you don't HAVE TO, I actually did not yet, but will soon.)
-17mm wrench. This PS/AC belt must be done first. Rotate belt tensioner CLOCKWISE until belt can be removed from the power steering pump pulley. It's a big bolt I'm pretty sure that you turn. Then, gently release the tension on the tensioner itself. Don't just let it go.
-Alternator Belt comes after as such.
-On top of alternator behind engine under reservoir bottle, LOOSEN, don't remove (unecessary), alternator's TOP locking nut.
-Then LOOSEN alternator pivot bolt, which is below the alternator.
-LOOSEN alternator adjusting bolt until the belt can be fully removed, just loose enough, don't completely remove bolts as it's not needed and would be harder to put back on I'm sure.
-Remove the belt!

5) Removal of Crankshaft Damper DO NOT DO UNLESS YOU DESIRE TOO, NOT NEEDED UNLESS REPLACING TIMING BELT

-Removal of Vibration Damper - This pulley is located on the side where the belts are on the bottom above the oil pan. You will need two special tools to take this off. You can purchase this at the local dealership; Special Tool 1026 and Insert 6827A. It may not be necessary to remove this.
1. Accessory drive must be removed if not done so yet.
2. Remove crankshaft damper bolt.
3. Remove damper by using Special Tool 1026 and Insert 6827A.

6) Removal of Lower Motor Mount
- Remove pencil strut. (This is attached to the frame then to the lower torque strut. One end is closed, the other end is open)
- Remove the bolts attaching the lower torque strut to cross member and strut bracket.
-SUPPORT ENGINE NOW, you might as well because you have to in 5 seconds anyways and this won't put extra strain on your driver side single motor mount bolt.
- Remove lower torque strut.

7) Removal of Lower Front Cover (continued on...)
-Disconnect the AC pressure switch at rear of compressor housing
-Remove power steering pump, you do not need to remove the entire bracket. There's 3 bolts we removed to slide pump out of it's bracket position, DO NOT DISCONNECT ANY PUMP LINES. Just pull the pump out forward a little bit so it's not in the way of jacking up the motor or removing any other parts from there. I did have to work it around a little while removing some stuff so keep in mind to have someone help hold it out of the way when you move things.
-Now remove the 3 bolts that hold the motor mount plate in. This is the thick metal frame that is preventing you from pulling the gears right out the side of the engine. It blocks them in and you'll see it. It's pretty good size.
-Take your time and just ease the plate out of there, it has some thick pieces that stick out into the engine itself for support, so just be careful and slowly remove it out of the car. It's not as long as some say, just work it out slowly and don't freak the hell out .

8) Removal of Timing Belt
-You don't need to remove the rear cover that covers the gears. If you can see the gears from front cover being off, but the back cover is still on. THAT'S FINE. THE NEW GEARS WILL NOT RUB THE REAR COVER.
-NOTE: WHEN ALIGNING CRANKSHAFT AND CAMSHAFT TIMING MARKS ALWAYS ROTATE ENGINE FROM CRANKSHAFT. CAMSHAFT SHOULD NOT BE ROTATED AFTER TIMING BELT IS REMOVED. DAMAGED TO VALVE COMPONETS MAY OCCUR. ALWAYS ALIGN TIMING MARKS BEFORE REMOVING TIMING BELT.
- Before removing the timing belt, rotate crankshaft until the TDC (Top Dead Center) mark on oil pump housing aligns with the TDC mark on crankshaft sprocket.
NOTE: THE CRANKSHAFT SPROCKET TDC MARK IS LOCATED ON THE TRAILING EDGE OF THE SPROCKET TOOTH. FAILURE TO ALIGN TRAILING EDGE OF SPROCKET TOOTH TO TDC MARK ON OIL PUMP HOUSING WILL CAUSE THE CAMSHAFT TIMING MARKS TO BE MISALIGNED.
- Loosen timing belt tensioner lock bolt.
- Insert a 6 mm Allen wrench into the hexagon opening located on the top plate of the belt tensioner pulley. Rotate the top place CLOCKWISE until there is enough slack in timing belt to allow for removal.
- Now after all this, remove the timing belt. YOU DON'T HAVE TO REMOVE BELT COMPLETELY, WE JUST PULLED IT OFF GEARS AND SET IT CAREFULLY TO THE SIDE WHILE STILL ON PULLEY AND INSIDE LOWER COVER INSTALLED. IF YOU DO THISBE CAREFUL NOT TO GET THE BELT TO SKIP ANY TEETH OR GET OFF BALANCE FROM WHERE IT WAS BEFORE, JUST SET IT CAREFULLY AND YOU'LL BE FINE

9) Removal of Cam Gears (Camshaft Sprockets)
- Using a special camshaft sprocket holder remove the sprocket bolts. (if you don't have this vise grips work fine also, just be careful when tighetning against gears, we did not use any special tools for this ourselves, just broke bolts loose and were careful at using our grips, OR USE IMPACT WRENCH, but be VERY CAREFUL)
-Pull off the gears now, very easy, just slide right out towards you.

10) Removal of Timing Belt Rear Cover I skipped this.
Removal of the Timing Belt Rear Cover -
1. Remove timing belt idler pulley.
2. Now remove timing belt cover fasteners and remove cover from engine.

11) Removal of Camshaft Bearing Caps, these go over the cams and hold them in place.
-remove the outside bearing caps first
-Loosen the camshaft bearing cap attaching fasteners in sequence shown one camshaft at a time. Make sure keep in the same exact order!
NOTE: CAMSHAFTS ARE NOT INTERCHANGEABLE. THE INTAKE CAM NUMBER 6 THRUST BEARING FACE SPACING IS WIDER.

[evil_2]

12) Removal of Camshafts
-after removing caps that hold them down on all sides. Lift them up carefully, they may be tight a little stuck in, just be careful and gently tug on them if they get sticky, my cam #1 was stuck a bit, took 5 mins of gentle pulling.

13) NO MORE STEPS. REMOVAL IS COMPLETE YAY. NOW SHUTUP BECAUSE HERE GOES THE RE_INSTALLATION OF YER NEWER ONES WOOHOO!!!!!
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1) Installation of Camshafts
- Lubricate all camshaft bearing journals, rocker arms and camshaft lobes.
- Position camshafts on cylinder head bearing journals. Install right and left camshaft bearing caps. Number 2 - 5 and right Number 6. Tighten M6 fasteners to 105 in.lbs. in this sequence:

Camshaft 1
7--1--3--5--9
8--2--4--6--10

Camshaft 2
7--1--3--5
8--2--4--6

- Apply a gasket maker to Number 1 and Number 6 bearing caps and tighten M8 fasteners to 250 in.lbs.
NOTE: BEARING END CAPS MUST BE INSTALLED BEFORE SEALS CAN BE INSTALLED.
- Install the camshaft position sensor.

2) Installation of Valve Cover/Cylinder Head Cover
- wipe out the inside of the cover a bit and clean her up some before putting back on
- Apply RTV or some sealant at the camshaft cap corners and at the top edges of the 1/2 round seal. (basically where they were before when you removed the gasket the first time around)
- Install cylinder head cover assembly to cylinder head. Install all fasteners, ensuring the double ended studs are in their proper location. Tighten fasteners in sequence:

6--2--7
4--1--5
8--3--9

-Now using a 3 step torque methods torque as follows:
--First tighten all bolts to 40 in.lbs.
--Now tighten all bolts to 80 in.lbs.
--Last tighten all bolts to 105 in.lbs.

- Install nut securing coolant return line bracket to cylinder head cover stud.
- Clip wiring harness to cylinder head cover studs.
- Install ignition coil and connect spark plug wires. Tighten ignition coil fasteners to 105 in.lbs.
- Connect ignition coil connector.
- Connect the PCV and make-up air hoses to cylinder head cover.


3) Install Rear Timing Belt Cover (if you did this part)

Installation of the Timing Rear Cover -
1. Install rear timing belt cover and fasteners. Torque fasteners:
M6 Bolts - 105 in.lbs.
M8 Bolts - 250 in.lbs.
2. Install timing belt idler pulley. Torque pulley fastener to 45 ft.lbs.

4) Install Cam Gears (do not use an Impact Wrench on these to tighten them down, we used one to knock the sprockets out, but do not use to reinstall them, damage may occur to a dowel-pin inside)
-Install camshaft sprockets. Using special camshaft sprocket tool hold sprockets with tool while tightening center bolt to 85 ft.lbs. (we tightened by torque wrench ourselves and just carefully used vise grips to hold them tight while locking in place, but be very careful if done this way)


5) Install Timing Belt
- align gears to top dead center (TDC)
- align camshaft timing marks so that exhaust camshaft sprocket is 1/2 notch below the intake sprocket (intake is front gear, exhaust is rear gear)
- starting at crankshaft, put timing belt back on around gears etc. It will be tight, be careful.
- Move the exhaust camshaft sprocket counterclockwise to align marks and take up belt slack.
- Insert a 6 mm Allen wrench into the hexagon opening located on the top plate of the belt tensioner pulley. Rotate the top plate COUNTERCLOCKWISE. The tensioner pulley will move against the belt and the tensioner setting notch will eventually start to move clockwise. Watching the movement of the setting notch, continue rotating the top plate counterclockwise until the setting notch is aligned with the spring tang. Using the Allen wrench to prevent the top plate from moving, torque the tensioner lock bolt to 220 in.lbs. Setting notch and spring tang should remain aligned after lock bolt is torque.
- Remove Allen wrench and torque wrench.
- Rotate the crankshaft CLOCKWISE two complete revolutions manually for seating of the belt, until the crankshaft is repositioned at the TDC position. Verify that the camshaft and crankshaft timing marks are in proper position.
NOTE: REPOSITIONING THE CRANKSHAFT TO THE TDC POSITION MUST BE DONE ONLY DURING THE CLOCKWISE ROTATION MOVEMENT. IF TDC IS MISSED, ROTATE A FURTHER TWO REVOLUTIONS UNTIL TDC IS ACHIEVED. DO NOT, DO NOT ROTATE CRANKSHAFT COUNTERCLOCKWISE AS THIS WILL MAKE VERIFICATION OF PROPER TENSIONER SETTING IMPOSSIBLE.
- Check if the spring tang is within the tolerance window. If the spring tang is within the tolerance window, the installation process is complete and nothing further is required. If the spring tang is not within the tolerance window, repeat Steps 5 through 7.

6) Install Front Upper Cover (which is unnecessary because cover will rub gears, best to just leave it off, it is weel protected enough without the cover, don't worry about it so much. In the end you should only have the top front cover open, every other cover should be left on or back on when done.

7) Install top motor mount as motor is lowered back to even range for bolts.
-re-install engine support bracket if you took it out (bracket you could side-step if removed big bolt through TORX slot right in middle of bracket through to engine itself earlier)
-re-install power steering pump back to location between bracket, 45ft. lbs
- Lower engine into mounting position and install right engine mount through bolt. Tighten bolt to 87 ft.lbs. (reinstalling motor mount bolts through the metal motor mount plate)
-install top motor mount again
install AC pressure switch again, reconnect it

8) Reinstall Crankshaft damper ONLY IF YOU REMOVED IT
-Installation of the Crankshaft Damper -
1. Install crankshaft damper using the same special tool that was used to take the pulley off.
2. Tighten to 100 ft.lbs.

9) Install the accessory drive belts. (This operation should be done in the reverse order as they were taken off.)

10) Install lower motor mount and TORX bolt through wheel well where engine support bracket is if you didn't already.

11) Install accessory drive belt splash shield.

12) Install right front wheel.
-if you don't know how to do this, set down tools, delete account from SRTforums.com and step away from the vehicle

Ideal settings for 2.0 CAMSHAFTS ARE AS FOLLOWS FOR BEST RESULTS WITHOUT TUNING: Intake Advance 2 degrees. Exhaust retard 3-4 degrees.

Enjoy!!!
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Removal Of The Cylinder Head Cover-
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable (safety precaution)
2. Disconnect ignition coil connector.
3. Disconnect spark plug wires and remove ignition coil.
4. Disconnect PCV and make-up air hoses from the cylinder head cover.
5. Unclip wiring harness from cylinder head cover studs.
6. Remove nut securing coolant return line bracket to cylinder head cover stud.
7. Remove cylinder head cover fasteners.
8. Remove cylinder head cover from cylinder head.

Now you are going to remove the camshaft position sensor and camshaft target magnet (As with any other sensor use extreme caution when handling with these. Sensor are very delicate and my be expensive if you have to replace them)

Description of the Camshaft Position Sensor - The camshaft position sensor attaches to the rear of the cylinder head. The PCM determines fuel injection synchronization and cylinder identification from inputs provided by the camshaft position sensor and the crankshaft position sensor. From the two inputs, the PCM determines crankshaft position.

Removal of the Camshaft Position Sensor -
The camshaft position sensor is mounted to the rear of the cylinder head. It will be near the battery. Some aftermarket intakes are close to this sensor.
1. Remove brake booster hose and electrical connector from holders on end of cylinder head cover and reposition.
2. Disconnect electrical connectors from camshaft position sensor.
3. Remove camshaft position sensor mounting screws. Remove sensor.

Now you are going to want to remove the upper and lower timing belt covers. This can be a little time consuming due to the limited amount of space. Just take you time and don't get frustrated.

Removal of the Upper Front Cover -
1. Remove upper torque strut mount (motor mount as some may know it)
2. Remove torque strut bracket from strut tower.
3. Remove torque strut bracket from engine.
4. Remove upper timing belt cover fasteners and remove cover. (There will be three fasteners that hold the upper cover)

Removal of the Lower Front Cover - When removing the lower front cover it will require removing other item while in the process.
1. Raise the car and remove the right front wheel.
2. Remove the accessory drive belt splash shield that is located under the car below the intercooler pipe.
3. At this time you are now going to remove the accessory drive belts. This is a new process;

Removal of Drive Belts - There are going to be two belts that you remove. One is the Power Steering Pump and the Air Conditioning Compressor Belt, and the Alternator Belt. Word of advice, if your car is about 10 months old go ahead and buy new belts. They are cheap and you will have to do it sooner or later.

Power Steering Pump and Air Conditioning Compressor Belt -
1. Using a 17 mm wrench, rotate belt tensioner clockwise until belt can be removed from power steering pump pulley. Gently, release spring tension on tensioner.
2. Remove the belt.

Alternator Belt - (You must remove the power steering pump and air conditioning compressor belt before this can be removed)
1. Loosen alternator locking nut. (This is located above the alternator)
2. Raise front of car.
3. Remove accessory drive belt splash shield if you haven't done so yet.
4. Loosen alternator pivot bolt. (This is located below the alternator)
5. Loosen alternator adjusting bolt until alternator belt can be removed.
6. Remove generator belt.

Continued from Removal of the Lower Front Cover -
4. At this time you are now going to remove the crankshaft damper. This is a new process;

Removal of Vibration Damper - This pulley is located on the side where the belts are on the bottom above the oil pan. You will need two special tools to take this off. You can purchase this at the local dealership; Special Tool 1026 and Insert 6827A. It may not be necessary to remove this.
1. Accessory drive must be removed if not done so yet.
2. Remove crankshaft damper bolt.
3. Remove damper by using Special Tool 1026 and Insert 6827A.

Continued from Removal of the Lower Front Cover -
5. At this time you are now going to remove the lower torque strut. This is a new process;

Removal of the Lower Torque Strut (or lower torque mount) -
1. Remove the accessory drive belt splash shield if you have not done so already.
2. Remove pencil strut. (This is attached to the frame then to the lower torque strut. One end is closed, the other end is open)
3. Remove the bolts attaching the lower torque strut to cross member and strut bracket.
4. Remove lower torque strut.

Continued from Removal of the Lower Front Cover -
6. Disconnect A/C pressure switch at rear of compressor housing.
7. Lower car and support engine with a jack.
8. Remove upper torque strut attaching bolts and remove strut. (This will be the upper torque mount)
9. Remove power steering pump and bracket. Set pump aside. DO NOT DISCONNECT LINES FROM PUMP.
10. With engine properly supported, remove right engine mount through bolt.
11. Raise engine properly supported, and remove right engine mount though bolt.
12. At this time you will be able to remove the timing belt cover fasteners and remove cover

Now you will begin the process of removing the timing belt and sprockets.

Removal of the Timing Belt -
1. After removing the Timing Belt Covers you will not begin removing the Timing Belt.
NOTE: WHEN ALIGNING CRANKSHAFT AND CAMSHAFT TIMING MARKS ALWAYS ROTATE ENGINE FROM CRANKSHAFT. CAMSHAFT SHOULD NOT BE ROTATED AFTER TIMING BELT IS REMOVED. DAMAGED TO VALVE COMPONETS MAY OCCUR. ALWAYS ALIGN TIMING MARKS BEFORE REMOVING TIMING BELT.
2. Before removing the timing belt, rotate crankshaft until the TDC (Top Dead Center) mark on oil pump housing aligns with the TDC mark on crankshaft sprocket.
NOTE: THE CRANKSHAFT SPROCKET TDC MARK IS LOCATED ON THE TRAILING EDGE OF THE SPROCKET TOOTH. FAILURE TO ALIGN TRAILING EDGE OF SPROCKET TOOTH TO TDC MARK ON OIL PUMP HOUSING WILL CAUSE THE CAMSHAFT TIMING MARKS TO BE MISALIGNED.
3. Loosen timing belt tensioner lock bolt.
4. Insert a 6 mm Allen wrench into the hexagon opening located on the top plate of the belt tensioner pulley. Rotate the top place CLOCKWISE until there is enough slack in timing belt to allow for removal.
6. Now after all this, remove the timing belt.

Ok now you are going to remove the camshaft sprockets.
Removal of the Camshaft Sprockets -
1. Using a special camshaft sprocket holder remove the sprocket bolts.
2. Remove camshaft sprockets.

All most done not too much more. You are now going to remove the timing belt rear cover.
Removal of the Timing Belt Rear Cover -
1. Remove timing belt idler pulley.
2. Now remove timing belt cover fasteners and remove cover from engine.

With the cylinder head cover removed you are now going to remove the bearing caps. These caps are what hold the camshafts in place. The bearing caps are identified for location.

Removal of the Bearing Caps -
1. Remove the outside bearing caps first.
2. Loosen the camshaft bearing cap attaching fasteners in sequence shown one camshaft at a time. Make sure keep in the same exact order!
NOTE: CAMSHAFTS ARE NOT INTERCHANGEABLE. THE INTAKE CAM NUMBER 6 THRUST BEARING FACE SPACING IS WIDER.

Removing of the Camshafts -
At this time you will be able to lift the cams from the head.

Congratulation you have successfully completed the removal. Yeap, now you got to put the other back in. Ok . . . here we go . . .

Camshaft Installation
At this time since you have your car in pieces now maybe a good time to look for abnormal wear. Few place to check are the camshaft bearing journals for damage and binding. If journals are binding, check the cylinder head for damage. Also check cylinder head oil holes for flogging. Now with new camshaft in hand you are ready.
NOTE: ENSURE THAT NONE OF THE PISTONS ARE AT TOP DEAD CENTER WHEN INSTALLING THE CAMSHAFTS.

Installation of the Camshafts -
1. Lubricate all camshaft bearing journals, rocker arms and camshaft lobes.
2. Position camshafts on cylinder head bearing journals. Install right and left camshaft bearing caps. Number 2 - 5 and right Number 6. Tighten M6 fasteners to 105 in.lbs. in this sequence:

Camshaft 1
7--1--3--5--9
8--2--4--6--10

Camshaft 2
7--1--3--5
8--2--4--6

3. Apply a gasket maker to Number 1 and Number 6 bearing caps and tighten M8 fasteners to 250 in.lbs.
NOTE: BEARING END CAPS MUST BE INSTALLED BEFORE SEALS CAN BE INSTALLED.
4. Install the camshaft target magnet and camshaft position sensor.
5. At this time you are now going to install the cylinder head cover. This is a new process;

Installation of the Cylinder Head Cover -
Note: DO NOT ALLOW OIL TO CONTACT THE TIMING BELST AS IT MAY CAUSE DETERIORATES THE RUBBER AND CAUSE TOOTH SKIPPING.
1. Clean the cylinder head cover sealing surface.
2. Install new cylinder head cover gasket and spark plug well seals.
3. Apply RTV at the camshaft cap corners and at the top edges of the 1/2 round seal.
4. Install cylinder head cover assembly to cylinder head. Install all fasteners, ensuring the double ended studs are in their proper location. Tighten fasteners in sequence:

6--2--7
4--1--5
8--3--9

Now using a 3 step torque methods torque as follows:
First tighten all bolts to 40 in.lbs.
Now tighten all bolts to 80 in.lbs.
Last tighten all bolts to 105 in.lbs.

5. Install nut securing coolant return line bracket to cylinder head cover stud.
6. Clip wiring harness to cylinder head cover studs.
7. Install ignition coil and connect spark plug wires. Tighten ignition coil fasteners to 105 in.lbs.
8. Connect ignition coil connector.
9. Connect the PCV and make-up air hoses to cylinder head cover.
10 Connect negative battery cable.

Continued from Installation of Camshafts -
6. At this time you are now going to install the timing belt rear cover. This is a new process;

Installation of the Timing Rear Cover -
1. Install rear timing belt cover and fasteners. Torque fasteners:
M6 Bolts - 105 in.lbs.
M8 Bolts - 250 in.lbs.
2. Install timing belt idler pulley. Torque pulley fastener to 45 ft.lbs.
3. Install camshaft sprockets. Using special camshaft sprocket tool hold sprockets with tool while tightening center bolt to 85 ft.lbs.
NOTE: DO NOT USE AN IMPACT WRENCH TO TIGHTEN CAMSHAFT SPROCKET BOLTS. DAMAGE TO THE CAMSHAFT-TO-SPROCKET LOCATING DOWEL PIN MAY OCCUR.

Continued from Installation of Camshafts -
7. At this time you are now going to install the timing belt. This is a new process;

Installation of the Timing Belt -
1. Set crankshaft sprocket to TDC by aligning the sprocket with the arrow on the oil pump housing.
2. Set camshafts timing marks so that the exhaust camshaft sprocket is a 1/2 notch below the intake camshaft sprocket.
3. Install timing belt. Starting at the crankshaft, go around the water pump sprocket, idler pulley, camshaft sprockets and then around the tensioner.
4. Move the exhaust camshaft sprocket counterclockwise to align marks and take up belt slack.
5. Insert a 6 mm Allen wrench into the hexagon opening located on the top ;late of the belt tensioner pulley. Rotate the top plate COUNTERCLOCKWISE. The tensioner pulley will move against the belt and the tensioner setting notch will eventually start to move clockwise. Watching the movement of the setting notch, continue rotating the top plate counterclockwise until the setting notch is aligned with the spring tang. Using the Allen wrench to prevent the top plate from moving, torque the tensioner lock bolt to 220 in.lbs. Setting notch and spring tang should remain aligned after lock bolt is torque.
6. Remove Allen wrench and torque wrench.
7. Rotate the crankshaft CLOCKWISE two complete revolutions manually for seating of the belt, until the crankshaft is repositioned at the TDC position. Verify that the camshaft and crankshaft timing marks are in proper position.
NOTE: REPOSITIONING THE CRANKSHAFT TO THE TDC POSITION MUST BE DONE ONLY DURING THE CLOCKWISE ROTATION MOVEMENT. IF TDC IS MISSED, ROTATE A FURTHER TWO REVOLUTIONS UNTIL TDC IS ACHIEVED. DO NOT, DO NOT ROTATE CRANKSHAFT COUNTERCLOCKWISE AS THIS WILL MAKE VERIFICATION OF PROPER TENSIONER SETTING IMPOSSIBLE.
8. Check if the spring tang is within the tolerance window. If the spring tang is within the tolerance window, the installation process is complete and nothing further is required. If the spring tang is not within the tolerance window, repeat Steps 5 through 7.

Continued from Installation of Camshafts -
8. At this time you are now going to install the upper & lower covers. This is a new process;

Installation of the Upper Front Cover -
1. Install timing belt cover and tighten fasteners to 50 in.lbs.
2. Install torque strut bracket to engine.
3. Install torque strut bracket to strut tower.
4. Install upper torque strut attaching bolts.

Installation of the Lower Front Cover -
1. Install lower timing belt cover and tighten fastenters to 50 in.lbs.
2. Install engine support bracket. Ensure the power steering pump is properly located in mounting location on bracket. Tighten mount bracket bolts to 45 ft.lbs.
3. Lower engine into mounting position and install right engine mount through bolt. Tighten bolt to 87 ft.lbs.
4. Install power steering pump and bracket.
5. Install upper torque strut attaching bolts
6. Raise car.
7. Connect A/C pressure switch connector
8. At this time you are now going to install the crankshaft damper. This is a new process;

Installation of the Crankshaft Damper -
1. Install crankshaft damper using the same special tool that was used to take the pulley off.
2. Tighten to 100 ft.lbs.

9. Now at this time you will install the accessory drive belts. This operation should be done in the reverse order as they were taken off.
10. Now install the lower torque mount.
11. Install accessory drive belt splash shield.
12. Install right front wheel.

Your all done now . . .

[lunchbox660]

holy shit, i tried reading it all but i got dizzy! thanks for the info tho! when i the time comes to do a can swap, i knwo where to come to get the info! THANKS!

joe

[r.j-lo]

what places even sell cams? I know modern and nemo but who else? and for cheapest price

hijack....but related....kinda

[lunchbox660]

howell automotive sells EVERYTHING for neons of all varieties...from SOHC to DOHC, 1st gen ,2nd gen, NA, turbo, whatever you want, theyve got it.

[evil_2]

what places even sell cams? I know modern and nemo but who else? and for cheapest price

hijack....but related....kinda


evilcreations sell them....