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04-24-2019, 02:19 PM
Ok, so I have a bunch of shit sitting around here waiting to be put on and I need some reassurance before it actually happens. First, the list of stuff I'm talking about:

Needswings V5 Downpipe
Stage 1 Injectors (I have an 03)
PTP 75psi FPR Mod
Dasmopar Clamp

While I'm waiting on my FMIC to get here from the EC group buy, I was going to throw this stuff on and see if I can get some gains out before the intercooler. I'm looking to run like 20-21psi (basically following the aaronneon 300whp build) and tune the extra fuel out to about 11.5 @ redline with the clamp. However, EGTs and timing are scaring me. Should I be worried enough about higher EGTs/knock/timing with this setup? Should I get a pyrometer/scangauge before doing all of this? Am I just freaking out over something stupid?

04-24-2019, 07:20 PM
well, alot of this depends on a few factors.

21 psi on that setup will work, but on what gas? where are you located? if you are in the southwest, chances are you get smoe pretty shitty gas. that being said, 21 psi is going to knock ALOT with that setup on 91. on 94/95 you should be pretty good to go tho. so hopefully you live in the midwest or east coast where that kind of gas is more readily available.

i wouldnt bother putting all this stuff on and holding off on the IC just to see what kind of gains you get between the two setups. going from stock to this proposed setup alone is going to make a HUGE difference. ading the IC is not going to do much for you in the bottom end, the top end is where they really shine because they dont get heatsoaked like the stocker, BUT since all the TQ is in the bottom end, you probably wont even feel much of a difference. a dyno will show a good gain, but your butt probably wont notice it unless youve got ALOT of seat time with your setup, which, since you are saying you are just now looking to do al this, tells me you have ZERO seat time with the setup. if i was you i would just install it all at once, or if you do it seperately, dont focus on looking for a gain, cus its gonna be hard to pick out since you dont have enough familiarity with the car yet.

yes get the scangauge. get one from aeroforce technology. they are WAAAAY better than the tech gauges the other company sells. i just got one recently after owning my car for 3 years and i wish i wouldve gotten it WAAAAY sooner. make sure you get a wideband at the very minimum tho, cus you cant tune without one unless youve got oodles of money to spend on dyno time. get the pyrometer if you dont feel comfortable with the other two instruments. the thing about using a pyro on the stock turbofold in these cars is that they run hot as hell no matter what because of the horrible design of the manifold, so youre going to see some REALLY scary numbers. if you DO get one, you need to install THAT FIRST so that you can go do some baseline pulls and record them stock before you start adding your mods, otherwise you will never know if you made it worse or better....

04-24-2019, 09:10 PM
I live in Ohio, filling up with 93. I have the wideband, my main concern is just my car melting shit because I'm not monitoring the timing/EGT. I'm not really looking for any gains in the FMIC, just wanting to put this stuff on ASAP.

So basically what I'm looking for is, is it going to be safe to run 21psi with the FPR mod, just pulling fuel to 11.5?

04-25-2019, 12:12 AM
21 psi at 11.5 afr will be fine. but i personally wouldnt put too much stock into the PTP FPR mod as your ONLY fuel system upgrade. theres nothing wrong with it, dont get me wrong, but it affords you NO tuning options. 75 psi is what youre stuck with, period. if i was you i would consider getting a return line instead, or at least sometime down the road so you can tune it to custom fit your setup.

04-25-2019, 12:17 AM
And knock won't be an issue on 93?

04-25-2019, 01:29 AM
maybe a little bit, but not nearly as much as with the oxygenated 91 that we have here....

you have to try to understand a little bit, these cars can experience knock even if they are BONE STOCK. its normal. it has nothing to do with the tune in some cases, its just shitty gas. if you put in good expensive gas, the knock goes away. the knock sensor will wanr the car of the condition and the car will rspond by pulling timing to reduce the dangerous effects of the knock. i have run my scan gauge on an other wise bone stock srt (stock boost control, stock exhuast, just an FMIC and intake) and it still got 6.5 degrees of KR with a ported and polished exhaust manifold, which actually helps to REDUCE EGTS and REDUCE knock, so imagine what it woudlve been without the PnP work :ftard:

i think with your gas and a minor tune you should be perfectly fine. i am running on shittier gas than you and have been running it like this for 3 yrs with no major problems. have some faith in your car man, these things can take alot more of beating than most people realize ;)

04-25-2019, 07:33 AM
Haha thanks man, I'm just very paranoyed, I had a friend blow through 2 SRT4 motors and I'm just trying to do all I can to make sure that mine doesn't.

04-25-2019, 08:21 AM
I'm going to have to recommend dropping that peak boost setting to about 19psi. Most likely you won't see a power difference between the 19psi and 21 psi. 21 is out of the turbo's efficiency anyway and all you're really doing is blowing more hot air. Also at 19 psi the S1 injectors will probably be all you need for fuel. To many people get stuck on the idea that more boost means more power,after a certain point it's no longer true. The key is staying in the turbo's efficiency range.

04-25-2019, 12:39 PM
troof. but i do have dyno sheets to prove that this turbo can still made good gains going from 19 to 21 and still on stock injectors, but it took more than just a map clamp and a FPR mod, it took a full fuel return system and a large FMIC and about 2 hours of dyno time, but the difference was EXTREMELY noticeable.

04-25-2019, 02:23 PM
troof. but i do have dyno sheets to prove that this turbo can still made good gains going from 19 to 21 and still on stock injectors, but it took more than just a map clamp and a FPR mod, it took a full fuel return system and a large FMIC and about 2 hours of dyno time, but the difference was EXTREMELY noticeable.

Oh I agree totaly man. I made some decent power on the stocker @ 21 falling to 18 with water injection. The problem is most people are not going to do whats needed to run saftly at that boost level on the stocker. Thats why I always tell people to turn the boost down a little when they ask questions like this.

04-25-2019, 05:10 PM
no, i made good power WITHOUT meth injection at 21 psi. 292/318 on 91 cali pump piss and all supporting mods.

04-25-2019, 09:08 PM
The ptp fuel mod will give you no adjustability like lunchbox said vs. a return line. It still an be used, but i'd recommend upgrading the fuel pump either way. The return line will give you more options as far as tuning wise for the most power. 20 psi is a safe range if you have enough fuel and can monitor knock retard. A san gauge will be your favorite mod though, i gaurentee it.

04-25-2019, 11:06 PM
for sure. the scan gauge is an invaluable tuning tool.

04-26-2019, 12:21 AM
I'll keep that in mind, once I figure out this fucking clutch issue.

04-26-2019, 04:25 AM
um....WHAT clutch issue? i didnt notice you post anything about a clutch issue....mebbe i can help with that too :)

04-26-2019, 10:55 AM
sertme, where in ohio are you?? Im in the dayton area:)

04-26-2019, 01:03 PM
Cincinnati, I'm on SRD, name is alex.

My clutch is making a really bad grinding noise at the top of gears, sometimes it does it when its at idle or regular driving. We had an issue where the pressure plate was knocking up against the release arm, replaced the whole arm/tob assembly and its starting to do it again. Spec Stage 2 clutch, pretty sure thats the problem right there, but I'm kinda hoping its master/slave cylinder related, much cheaper and easier to do by myself. Does anyone else's clutch pedal click at the bottom? You can hear mine click when the car is off.

04-26-2019, 01:16 PM
the pedal should not stick, no. that would definitely be a master/slave cylinder problem, because internally the cluthc is not actually CONNECTED to the pivot arm or slave cylinder at all, it just rides on a ball like a joint that slips out. so if it is sticking, youve got cylinder issues. either your fluid is low, or you have a leak. i had it happen to me on my supra. when it leaks, it will stick to the floor even if your foot is not on it. it cost me $10 in parts to repair it. new spring, piston and seals. for this car i am not sure if they sell rebuild kits. you might possibly have to buy a complete unit. not sure. if this is the case then it could also indicate why youve got grinding issues. if it is leaking then that means the cylinder is not working at its full efficiency and probably not traveling as far as it is supposed to, meaning our pressure plate is not fully disengaging. look up under your dash and see if you can see an excess of moisture up under there where the clutch pivot is. you can see the piston from there. if its really wet, the seals probably went bad. it should have a SMALL amount of lube on it, but it shouldnt be wet.

what kind of fluid are you using in it? factory or did you replace with something else? this sound more like a warranty issue to me because nothing should cause those seals to go bad if you have the factory spec'd fluid in there. especially as young as the car is. unless you are shooting sand up under your dash and scratching the piston, that could do it....but im sure you arent doing that ;)

04-26-2019, 02:50 PM
It doesn't stick, it makes a clicking noise. I'm probably going to take it back to Dodge and have them look at it. I would imagine anything in the tranny would be covered under warranty, even with the catless downpipe I have on.

04-26-2019, 02:52 PM
Also, the pressure plate disengages too, if the car is on a flat surface in first, it doesn't move. I had that problem before too.

04-26-2019, 02:52 PM
Mine clicks when i put it in reverse :lol: