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View Full Version : Gt3071r + emanage + E01 + return line HELP PLEASE!


Godspd
07-31-2019, 10:15 PM
hey guys it's been a while, but the car is ready for a tune, all is ready to rockin roll.


However I do have stage 2 injectors, and plan to keep them for a while.


I have lm-1 and supporting mods

all installed


i need help with maps -- anyone got a startup for me??

help me please!

blackbird
08-01-2019, 04:47 AM
Do you also have a scan gauge or scan tool that can display knock retard in degrees as well as other OBD-II data? If not you might want to pick one up. Once you have that and the wideband you should be able to figure a rough starting point where you need to be for fuel pressure and slowly turn up the boost on the turbo. If it starts getting lean raise fuel pressure or if you start getting knock pull less fuel with the emanage. You might want to start with the emanage zeroed out if you can't find any suggestions, turn up the fuel pressure, then slowly turn up the boost little by little and make adjustments as necessary.

Godspd
08-02-2019, 11:25 AM
well i dont have the obd II -- but the latest with the car is 20psi @ 11.2 -- car feels great -- need to take it to a pro! -- and i need a scan tool!!

blackbird
08-02-2019, 12:39 PM
If the 11.2 is your A/F ratio and it doesn't get leaner than that at WOT under a heavy load you should be good. I'm guessing you also have a return fuel line kit and have increased your fuel pressure as S2 injectors on stock fuel pressure shouldn't support that much boost. If you are going to tweak the car yourself (and even if you take it somewhere else) one of the scan gauges like the AeroForce would be a great investment to watch timing and make sure you are not getting any knock. :thumb:

Godspd
08-03-2019, 11:05 PM
i am really thinking I can push just a little more boost... considering, however i am just a sissy when it comes to pushing it to the limit. Then the other limiting factor in the tuning of this car is the lm1 tends to get hot or something and throws error codes, so when i am trying to analyze things through several passes, the lm1 takes a crap on me...purchasing the lm1 was a big mistake for this car...

blackbird
08-04-2019, 10:51 AM
How close do you have the sensor mounted to the turbine discharge? If you would have got a different wideband that use the exact same sensor it still would overheat but instead of getting an error code your A/F would just start to drift off and you wouldn't know it. The heating element in the sensor head can heat it up to the temp it need to accurately measure Lambda but it has no was to cool it down. Have you tried a heat sink or using a drilled out de-fouler if you can't move the bung further downstream?

Godspd
08-05-2019, 09:45 PM
well the wide band sensor is in the mid area of the downpipe, whereas my other two sensors are just ahead of it toward the turbine -- 1 above the wb, and the other in the 02 housing --- so in other words it is exactly the furtherest from the turbine... i suppose i could go further down.... haven't tried the heat sink, nor am i familiar with the "drilled out de-fouler" idea.... again thanks for the consistent feedback!

blackbird
08-06-2019, 06:41 AM
The spark plug defouler is what is sometimes used for a second stock narrowband sensor when the cat is removed to trick the PCM into thinking it's still there (in other words it shields the narrowband sensor enough from the exhaust stream that alters the reading enough to make the computer think the cat is still present). If you completely drill out the end of one (which are commonly available at any auto parts store under the "Help" brand or whatever one that chains carries) the wideband can still read but doesn't get as hot since the sensor head isn't all the way in the exhaust stream. The heat sink is as the name implies a device that you can add around the external ceramic of the O2 sensor in order to help pull out heat faster. You might want to check out the Innovate support forums (http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/forums/index.php) for some ideas on both of those. They also sell a heat sink but you're better off trying to make one yourself first to see if it helps.

Godspd
08-06-2019, 07:39 AM
i will do some research, Blackbird (you are a stud) every damn time i get on here with a question you are the first to answer... thanks a lot for all your help it's appreciated.....

Stage2BlackSRT4
08-06-2019, 03:14 PM
If the 11.2 is your A/F ratio and it doesn't get leaner than that at WOT under a heavy load you should be good. I'm guessing you also have a return fuel line kit and have increased your fuel pressure as S2 injectors on stock fuel pressure shouldn't support that much boost. If you are going to tweak the car yourself (and even if you take it somewhere else) one of the scan gauges like the AeroForce would be a great investment to watch timing and make sure you are not getting any knock. :thumb:

x2 on the AeroForce PM forcefeedjunky about them (todd who works for them), great customer service and nice gauge.

Godspd
08-07-2019, 02:48 PM
If the 11.2 is your A/F ratio and it doesn't get leaner than that at WOT under a heavy load you should be good. I'm guessing you also have a return fuel line kit and have increased your fuel pressure as S2 injectors on stock fuel pressure shouldn't support that much boost. If you are going to tweak the car yourself (and even if you take it somewhere else) one of the scan gauges like the AeroForce would be a great investment to watch timing and make sure you are not getting any knock. :thumb:

(yes return line set at 40psi with the vac line on)
11.2 and even 10.8 afr top of third @ 20 psi and some change... what do you think the limits are... this car feels tough... but of course the duty rating is drastically increased on these s2 injectors -- i don't have any idea on the realm of the duty rating at 20 psi... any feedback is always great

When i am trying to monitor it on the wb -- it's nerve wrecking because i am really trying to keep a close eye on the afr --- i suppose i could set a warning light and beep when the afr rises above say 11.7 or so -- but it's irritating prior to wot -- idle being 14.2 or so...



What do you guys think??


thanks

Stage2BlackSRT4
08-07-2019, 03:35 PM
Get the gauge that can monitor knock rates (timing retard) ASAP, when tuning with that combo of things the WB really helps but its definitely not 100% of what you need as you already know.

As I'm sure you realize you can have a 10.0-11 AFR and seem to be running great but be getting 1-5kr (and so not be able to hear it above eng noise, I've found that even with a loud car if you get about 6+ KR you can year it audibly, happened twice with me both times with the stock turbo though). Low amounts of engine detonation might be ok but also might be enough to do damage given the right conditions with the high cylinder temps and pressures being forced on it with a large turbo system.

For example I'm currently turning my set up (just one or so pulls every few days I've not had time to really do it). Anyway, I have a light base turn set up, boost of 22psi, AFR of 10.3 (turning still) at this point I have the base on the return line set higher and was trying to turn with the sfac to "hide" some boost. I cant pull anymore then about 11% on the sfac before I start getting .5-1KR in the middle of the band (TQ peak area), so I'll have to leave that area lighter pull a little more in the upper and lower area of the band tell I start seeing light KR again and then leave it. After that start tuning the return line and so the AFR more and then after that add the w/I back in maybe try pulling a TINY bit more with the sfac if I can to squeeze that last bit out. At this point it sure would be nice to have a standalone instead of all these diff things fighting each other.

--*This is just being repeated from what people have said to me who actually know what they are talking and from what I have observed with my own car--*

Godspd
08-08-2019, 10:08 AM
money money money - wife chopping my balls off -- well with all considered where should i keep my boost, fuel pressure, etc... to stay safe, and at what percent should i reduce the boost during warning... i want to race someone without blowing up my car.... but don't have the funds to purchase the aeroforce YET... i got an expensive setup thus far... next up clutch, and maybe some internal stuff...

please keep filling me in.. i truly appreciate it

Christopher

Stage2BlackSRT4
08-08-2019, 11:58 AM
Are you stage2 PCM? 2 or 3-bar map?

What I would do is calculate the minimum you need to pull % wise with the piggyback (using the map Volt graph found on this sight) to keep the PCM from seeing the over boost. And then just tune the fuel/Air with the boost and return line. You will not see as much timing (and so power) doing it this way but its much safer especially since you have no way of seeing your timing and knock timing retard levels during your tune and IMO it’s better to let the PCM see more boost (more control) in that type of situation. Running 110 OC would alleviate this type of concern a lot of course

Once you can get the Scan gauge you can return with much more confidence and maybe squeeze out that extra few HP with the timing/piggyback… W/I later and you can turn up the boost even more.

Also, just as an FYI with my base on the return set at 58psi I was running a duty cycle of 115% (not sure how that’s possible) with the stage 2 injectors @ 22psi (reason I upgraded to 650 CC, I saw that they might/could fail unexpectedly in the future from the abuse).

What seems “safe or safer” with one car might/could be 180 degrees for another car/set up

I have mine set up to reduce the boost the correct % to hit about 20-21psi if I overboost past 25psi

Just did a pull last night with the boost set at 23psi I’m running a nice 10.8AFR just need to turn the return down a few psi and maybe the boost a tiny bit up and I will have a safe (not maxed out) pump tune of 11.0-11.3 (would be see lots more knock without the W/I on this boost level though)

Godspd
08-09-2019, 10:05 PM
stg 1 and my lingo in this modification field is so poorly limited, i am just a guy that can build about anything, but when it comes to the technicallity of a project i am a LAMEARSESUMABITCH... lol ---but i understand most of your lingo! so i may shoot for 50 psi in fuel pressure... maybe??

19 psi
10-01-2019, 01:58 PM
nice set up godspd.. iw anted 3071 for a oong time but recently im thinking about going even 2871.....i hear you on the scan gauge..its fucking awsome.....i can hear adible knock as well at times even at around 3 KR. to me knock sort of sounds like a chain rattling around inside, or slight pinging sound, only way to explain it, you really have to listen for it because it kind of quiet and escpecilly at WOT. ...but better gas and lower temps take care of that. also i found that W/I did'nt help for shit...

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