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Old 07-19-2019, 11:44 AM   #1
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Info on tuning the gears with the cams.

Tuning the gears will take about 2 hours on the dyno. You start with the exhaust cam first and go negitive on the degree, when you have hit your highest number start on the intake gear and work positive. Now sometimes you will move towards negitive on the exhaust and you make less power, then you will have to move positive. This doent happen very often but from time to time it does. The cams with the gears will allow a better tune of the cams vs just installing the cams straight up. No cam can be perfect and even some engines have slight variables in them so the gears would be nessasary to make the most out of the cams (they have to come off for the install so might as well while your there).

If you go with the 16's the retainers and springs run $410 and that is the Ti' retainers not the steel ones.
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PTperformance PTP's Cali CREW Mole' (619) 817-5111. Paypal - mole79@aol.com
PTperformance (253) 653-3843 John. shop hours 10am to 7pm pst.Paypal - ptperformance@comcast.net,
if you have any ?s about any PTP stuff feel free to ask away. i will do my best to help you out.
for all you PTP needs visit the website.
www.pt-performance.com
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Old 07-19-2019, 12:17 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mole'
Info on tuning the gears with the cams.

Tuning the gears will take about 2 hours on the dyno. You start with the exhaust cam first and go negitive on the degree, when you have hit your highest number start on the intake gear and work positive. Now sometimes you will move towards negitive on the exhaust and you make less power, then you will have to move positive. This doent happen very often but from time to time it does. The cams with the gears will allow a better tune of the cams vs just installing the cams straight up. No cam can be perfect and even some engines have slight variables in them so the gears would be nessasary to make the most out of the cams (they have to come off for the install so might as well while your there).

If you go with the 16's the retainers and springs run $410 and that is the Ti' retainers not the steel ones.

Most of the variation is actually in the belt, and the valves. Contrary to what you've stated here, Cams are VERY accurate. + or - .0005 generally, from most performance manufacturers. The valves, however, if measured for height from where they seat, can vary .015 or more from valve to valve. That changes the lift, and the opening time on the valve. Lifters also affect the precision of the timing, and the rate/amount of lift. Despite those variable, another of serious note, is the belt itself. The amount of elasticity your particular belt has will probably make as much difference as any other factor.

Further notes, would be that by retarding the exhaust side, you're increasing the cylinder pressure. Unless the stock keyway, the stock or replacement gears, were machined slightly off on the "0" mark, you should see benifits from this always (unless you are getting knock from the higher dynamic compression). Of course, if your lifters pump more quickly than my lifters, because of calculations that were allowed for, versus reality, then you may get one that wants to go positive on occasion, as you stated.

Advancing the intake side does the same as the exhaust, in that it increases cylinder pressure. Effectively, the intake closes sooner, and the exhaust opens later, and you increase the overlap of the valves. If you compare the various Crane Cam profiles, on a graphical curve, you'll see that some of the biggest differences, aside from the actual lift, is the overlap time....

Last edited by Low-Speed : 07-19-2019 at 12:18 PM.
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Old 07-23-2019, 11:33 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Low-Speed
Most of the variation is actually in the belt, and the valves. Contrary to what you've stated here, Cams are VERY accurate. + or - .0005 generally, from most performance manufacturers. The valves, however, if measured for height from where they seat, can vary .015 or more from valve to valve. That changes the lift, and the opening time on the valve. Lifters also affect the precision of the timing, and the rate/amount of lift. Despite those variable, another of serious note, is the belt itself. The amount of elasticity your particular belt has will probably make as much difference as any other factor.

Further notes, would be that by retarding the exhaust side, you're increasing the cylinder pressure. Unless the stock keyway, the stock or replacement gears, were machined slightly off on the "0" mark, you should see benifits from this always (unless you are getting knock from the higher dynamic compression). Of course, if your lifters pump more quickly than my lifters, because of calculations that were allowed for, versus reality, then you may get one that wants to go positive on occasion, as you stated.

Advancing the intake side does the same as the exhaust, in that it increases cylinder pressure. Effectively, the intake closes sooner, and the exhaust opens later, and you increase the overlap of the valves. If you compare the various Crane Cam profiles, on a graphical curve, you'll see that some of the biggest differences, aside from the actual lift, is the overlap time....
some good info......Thanks.
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Old 07-23-2019, 03:38 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mole'
some good info......Thanks.
Anytime.

Cylinder Pressure was described to me as the KEY to everything.
How much should you run? Well, what's your goal? If your goal is to get 100,000 miles out of the car, you should run as much as you can, and ensure you get 100,000 miles. If your goal is to make 40 seconds of clutch break-in, burnout, and run time, followed by a 4.5 second pass through the 1/4, then a rebuild, you can run insanely high cylinder pressures. Go too high to achieve your goal, and you'll see it leave parts beneath it!

Cam gears are a very worthy upgrade, I'd recommend to anyone, as are the Crane Cams on these engines. The Crane profiles show good gains on these motors. Their mildest profiles are about as powerful as their competitors top end profiles.....

This is a really great deal. Anyone who has the $$$, and doesn't get in on this, is an idiot, as that upgrade can make some of the most significant gains of anything you can do to our motors.
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Old 07-24-2019, 11:38 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Low-Speed
Anytime.

Cylinder Pressure was described to me as the KEY to everything.
How much should you run? Well, what's your goal? If your goal is to get 100,000 miles out of the car, you should run as much as you can, and ensure you get 100,000 miles. If your goal is to make 40 seconds of clutch break-in, burnout, and run time, followed by a 4.5 second pass through the 1/4, then a rebuild, you can run insanely high cylinder pressures. Go too high to achieve your goal, and you'll see it leave parts beneath it!

Cam gears are a very worthy upgrade, I'd recommend to anyone, as are the Crane Cams on these engines. The Crane profiles show good gains on these motors. Their mildest profiles are about as powerful as their competitors top end profiles.....

This is a really great deal. Anyone who has the $$$, and doesn't get in on this, is an idiot, as that upgrade can make some of the most significant gains of anything you can do to our motors.
at that, who wants a set???????????????
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